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General discussion around all things related to this site.
General Discussion
General discussion around all things related to this site.
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| Started By | Thread Subject | Replies | Last Post | ||||
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| rockcat | A55 Sport Crags guide | 0 | Yesterday, 4:14 PM EST by rockcat | ||||
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Thread started: Yesterday, 4:14 PM EST
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The new A55 Sport Climbs guide will be published on April 1st and features Llanddulas Cave, Castle Inn, Penmaen Head, Notice Board, Penmaenbach Quarry and The Gallery. If anyone has any photos which they would like to submit for inclusion they can send them via the e-mail address on this link. "A55 culture" photos are especially welcome, i.e. photos of other features which characterise the area. buildings etc.
http://news.pesdablog.com/2009/12/15/a55-sport-climbs/ |
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| petejh | Screen sizing issues | 1 | Nov 9 2009, 8:55 AM EST by petejh | ||||
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Thread started: Oct 10 2009, 6:53 AM EDT
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It seems some people are having trouble with the page sizes on the wikis. All the text and photo topos I've put onto this site have been laid out according to my laptop's resolution which is 1680x1050, so the pages are best viewed using a screen resolution of 1680x1050 or higher. If the text or topos don't fit on the page without having to use the scroll bar your screen resolution is set too low. You can adjust this in your computer's 'control panel'. It would be good to get a consensus from other computer geeks like me out there who might know whether it would better to change the layout according to a different screen resolution depending on what most people have their computers set to??
Also, Wetpaint will soon be changing all wikis to a standard screen size of 1024 pixels wide.
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| StevieFranklin | Bolts on Mussel Beach | 4 | Nov 4 2009, 9:48 AM EST by petejh | ||||
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Thread started: Nov 3 2009, 9:54 AM EST
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Hi there, was on mussel beach yesterday and noticed that the bolt that protects the crux was moving slightly, i don't know much about bolts especially resins so thought i would let you all know.
Steve P.s- thanks to everyone who has helped rebolt the ormes this summer
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| drewsh | Diamond Topo's | 4 | Oct 1 2009, 6:32 AM EDT by TommyChamings | ||||
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Thread started: Sep 29 2009, 6:30 AM EDT
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What do the red numbers indicate?
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| MikeRaine | Redistribtion of bolts/retrobolting | 3 | Sep 23 2009, 4:43 PM EDT by MikeRaine | ||||
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Thread started: Nov 25 2008, 1:59 PM EST
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Might do something here this winter. Will retro Turn the Turtles Turn,
Any objection to tidying up; Big Kazoo, Heightmare and retroing Turtle on Sight and Turtle, Ring your Mother? Are any of the other routes contenders for retroing? Mike
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| JBertalot | New boulder problem | 3 | Aug 28 2009, 5:46 AM EDT by rockcat | ||||
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Thread started: Aug 12 2009, 11:22 AM EDT
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I recently cleaned and climbed a cool boulder problem in the cave left of Prime the Pump...
On the inside left wall, there's a traverse line of flake undercuts, leading to a cool roof covered in mini-stalagtites. Start at the cave entrance, traverse in on the flakes and get established on the roof (crux), cross this rightwards and finish matched on a sloping shelf on the right. The cave is often wet, but this wall seems to stay dry. I've cleaned the only holds you'll need and the friction is amazing - like sandpaper. It's a bit esoteric... a headtorch helps! The Portcullis V6 (I think)
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| pete_robins | LPT grade changes | 3 | Aug 12 2009, 6:50 AM EDT by chrisdoyle | ||||
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Thread started: Jun 23 2009, 8:12 AM EDT
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Here is my list of possible grade changes, what do you think?
('?' means I'm less sure): The Refrain 7b Under the Boardwalk 6c Pas de Deux 8b Mussel Beach 7c+ ? Over the Moon Direct 7c+ ? Seaguls Dilema 8b+ Liquid Ambar 8c+ ? Wild Understatement 8a+ Wall of Voodoo 7b Cafe Libre 7c+ ? Kaffe Facet 6b+
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| chrisdavies | spine chill, E4 , not 6c+ | 0 | Jul 9 2009, 7:51 PM EDT by chrisdavies | ||||
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Thread started: Jul 9 2009, 7:51 PM EDT
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a few months ago, i had a rather ungainly bash at this route, but did it never the less, it did not seem very sporting to me, after lobbing off just before clipping the first bolt and nearly snapping my ankles. after using my fishing rod to help secure the first clip, more climbing was resumed! surely this route, excellent as it is, is far more deserving of it`s original grade of E4, (THANK GOD FOR MY FISHING ROD) !
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| stevewong | Mind Light | 0 | Jun 30 2009, 3:19 AM EDT by stevewong | ||||
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Thread started: Jun 30 2009, 3:19 AM EDT
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This route is a little easier than Karmic Wind but better rock. I think its a really good route, varied and on nice rock. A surprising find!
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| stevewong | Searching | 0 | Jun 30 2009, 3:18 AM EDT by stevewong | ||||
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Thread started: Jun 30 2009, 3:18 AM EDT
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Has the top wall lost a foothold or something? Seems much harder now than I remember it: certainly quite a bit harder than el Tigre just to the right.
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| jonnyr | Magic Flute | 1 | Jun 17 2009, 1:44 PM EDT by nigs66 | ||||
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Thread started: Jun 12 2009, 6:29 AM EDT
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Rebolted it's brilliant, tufa tastic! However, there are 2 new bolts at the 3rd clip, DO NOT USE THE HIGHER BOLT of the two as this didn't bite when placed, i will go back with more tools to remove it and the old bolts too.
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| rockcat | A55 crags guide | 0 | May 18 2009, 5:30 AM EDT by rockcat | ||||
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Thread started: May 18 2009, 5:30 AM EDT
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The GroundUp A55 crags guide has now kicked off and will include the crags listed below. If anyone can offer me historical info. for the record for Llanddulas Cave and Castle Inn particularly I'd be very much obliged.
Thanks, Mike Doyle 1. Llanddulas Cave 2.Craig-y-Forwyn 3. Craig Bryn Dulas (possibly) 4. Castle Inn Quarry 5. Penmaen Head 6. Notice Board Crag 7. The Gallery 8. Penmaenbach Quarry 9. Craig Seriol/Llanfairfechan hillside and coastal crags |
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| petejh | Lower-off bolts! | 2 | May 16 2009, 11:54 AM EDT by BK1 | ||||
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Thread started: May 11 2009, 6:28 PM EDT
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I was re-equipping 'Pink Pinkie today, I managed to easily pull out by hand the single eco bolt lower-off. A couple of yanks with a claw hammer behind it was all it took, less than 1kN, scary. I 've seen people top roping and lowering off from this bolt. Careful what you're clipping out there.
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| MikeRaine | Latest news | 2 | Apr 29 2009, 5:33 AM EDT by alunallcock | ||||
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Thread started: Feb 3 2009, 5:27 PM EST
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I have hard copies of the latest permission and agreement with CCW to climb in the SSSI. It basically gives permission for the gardening already done on the left hand end of the crag. Send me an SAE 16 Goodman Street Llanberis LL55 4HL if you'd like a copy.
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| TommyChamings | Pen Trwyn Rebolting Work | 1 | Apr 8 2009, 2:33 PM EDT by petejh | ||||
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Thread started: Apr 8 2009, 5:24 AM EDT
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Firstly, thanks so much for the rebolting work currently being undertaken on the upper tier. I assure the rebolters that their work is very much appreciated.
Are there any plans to carry out some rebolting on Lower Pen Trwyn? The fixed gear on some of the harder routes (Parasite, Pas de Deux, Walking Mussel...) is pretty rotten and it's a shame that this discourages climbers from trying these amazing routes. I work flexible hours so would be happy to help with re-equipping.
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| MikeRaine | Thanks | 0 | Mar 28 2009, 5:50 PM EDT by MikeRaine | ||||
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Thread started: Mar 28 2009, 5:50 PM EDT
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Thanks for the excellent work here folks, well done and cheers
Mike |
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| nigs66 | RE: route between pearl and searching | 1 | Mar 3 2009, 8:15 AM EST by TommyChamings | ||||
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Thread started: Feb 28 2009, 11:05 AM EST
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went for a walk round here today, gonna get on this new el tigre, looks good.
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
Keyword tags:
el tigre llandulas
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| petejh | Craig Bryn Dulas | 4 | Feb 5 2009, 12:00 PM EST by petejh | ||||
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Thread started: Jan 23 2009, 1:14 PM EST
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What are people's thoughts on drytooling on Craig Bryn Dulas?
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| MikeRaine | Fixed Gear | 3 | Dec 28 2008, 6:23 PM EST by JBertalot | ||||
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Thread started: Dec 12 2008, 5:53 AM EST
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Wouldn't it be nice if we could reclimb all the routes without any fixed gear?
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| dringo | Shine on you crazy DIAMOND lovers | 1 | Dec 1 2008, 2:12 PM EST by MikeRaine | ||||
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Thread started: Nov 30 2008, 5:41 PM EST
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I was just wondering whether anyone new of any re-equipping that's gone on at the Diamond? I am extremely keen to re-equip Wall of Evening Light, and maybe the Boat People. It sounds like an amazing place, I was just wondering whether it is possible to abseil in with a 100 metre rope. If a few people are keen it might be worth getting this venue ready for next summer, giving us enough time to get fit enough!
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