2. Mumbo Jumbo Area

Mumbo Jumbo area

1 Planned Obsolescence E2 5c Never climbed. It's been suggested this should be bolted to create a F5 route. Now retro bolted. 1a. Lizzy Askins 7a+ New route between The Fly and PO. Named as a tribute to Chris Doyle. Tommy 22/10/11 2 The Fly 7b * BMC pass, rings fitted. Three new resin pro bolts to replace old bolts and eliminate need for wires over roof. 3 Parting Shot 6c+ * BMC pass, rings fitted. One new resin pro bolt in start eliminating need for cam. 4 Brothers in Arms 6c ** A good route. Old lower-off is in a detached block, replaced with two new resin bolts/rings in better rock. One pro bolt added to the start.	5 Mumbo Jumbo 6a+ (6b direct) ** Good route, very popular.BMC inspection passed. Both eco belay bolts loose - replaced with Fixe/rings. One pro bolt added eliminating runout. The Irishman Must Go E3 6a A seldom (never) climbed direct variation through the middle roof crack on Mumbo Jumbo. 6 Tony's Route 6a+ Two new belay bolts/rings fitted. BMC pass. Old pro bolts replaced with three resin bolts. 7 Tears as Souvenirs 6b * Good route. BMC inspection pass/rings fitted. One new resin bolt on belay. 8 Fears for Tears 6c * Hard start. Pro bolts all ok.

1 Planned Obsolescence E2 5c
Never climbed. It's been suggested this should be bolted to create a F5 route. Now retro bolted.
1a. Lizzy Askins 7a+
New route between The Fly and PO. Named as a tribute to Chris Doyle. Tommy 22/10/11
2 The Fly 7b *
BMC pass, rings fitted. Three new resin pro bolts to replace old bolts and eliminate need for wires over roof.
3 Parting Shot 6c+ *
BMC pass, rings fitted. One new resin pro bolt in start eliminating need for cam.
4 Brothers in Arms 6c **
A good route. Old lower-off is in a detached block, replaced with two new resin bolts/rings in better rock. One pro bolt added to the start.

5 Mumbo Jumbo 6a+ (6b direct) **
Good route, very popular.BMC inspection passed. Both eco belay bolts loose - replaced with Fixe/rings. One pro bolt added eliminating runout.
The Irishman Must Go E3 6a
A seldom (never) climbed direct variation through the middle roof crack on Mumbo Jumbo.
6 Tony's Route 6a+
Two new belay bolts/rings fitted. BMC pass. Old pro bolts replaced with three resin bolts.
7 Tears as Souvenirs 6b *
Good route. BMC inspection pass/rings fitted. One new resin bolt on belay.
8 Fears for Tears 6c *
Hard start. Pro bolts all ok.

The Triad area
The Tiad area

1 The Man Dan J 7a+ Finishes up Tear as Souvenirs. Best left to rust away. 2 Feardrop E3 6b A never climbed solo. 3 H.A.P.P.Y. Only When I Crimp 6c+ C.R.A.P.P.Y. 4 Shadows and Light 7b * BMC inspection pass, rings fitted. All pro bolts ok, clipping sling seems ok (it held my weight, PH). 5 The Triad 6b+ * A good well-positioned route. 2nd bolt awkward to clip. BMC inspection pass, rings fitted. Left-hand lower off bolt loose and replaced with resin bolt. All pro bolts ok.	6 Pink and Black 6c * BMC inspection pass, rings fitted. All pro bolts ok. 7 Purple Tight Fright 6c All pro bolts ok. 8 Taipan 7b+ * Good sustained climbing. Pro bolts replaced with resin bolts (third resin bolt looks to be in dubious rock but hammer test was good). 9 Simon Says 8a ** Funky climbing through the stepped roofs, starting easily up the right arete. Traverse right at the first roof and grapple over three roofs to the top. Long quick-draws reduce rope-drag. FA: P. Robins (7/7/2010)

1 The Man Dan J 7a+
Finishes up Tear as Souvenirs. Best left to rust away.
2 Feardrop E3 6b
A never climbed solo.
3 H.A.P.P.Y. Only When I Crimp 6c+
C.R.A.P.P.Y.
4 Shadows and Light 7b *
BMC inspection pass, rings fitted. All pro bolts ok, clipping sling seems ok (it held my weight, PH).
5 The Triad 6b+ *
A good well-positioned route. 2nd bolt awkward to clip. BMC inspection pass, rings fitted. Left-hand lower off bolt loose and replaced with resin bolt. All pro bolts ok.

6 Pink and Black 6c *
BMC inspection pass, rings fitted. All pro bolts ok.
7 Purple Tight Fright 6c
All pro bolts ok.
8 Taipan 7b+ *
Good sustained climbing. Pro bolts replaced with resin bolts (third resin bolt looks to be in dubious rock but hammer test was good).

9 Simon Says 8a **
Funky climbing through the stepped roofs, starting easily up the right arete. Traverse right at the first roof and grapple over three roofs to the top. Long quick-draws reduce rope-drag.
FA: P. Robins (7/7/2010)

Split Infinity area

Pollit Bureau E1 5b The dirty crack out of the start of Split Traverse, V3. No lower-off, never climbed. 1 The Smithsonian Institute of Projects 6c Bolts look in a bad way. Looks like a poor route, not really worth replacing anything. 2 Split Infinity Direct 6c BMC inspection pass/rings fitted. Pro bolts replaced with resins.	3 Split Infinity 6b Worthwhile warm-up. Pro bolts in good condition, they could do with a coat of sealant to keep them good for longer. One resin pro bolt added on lip of roof, still a reach to clip but much better than before. 4 The Pain, the Pain, It Hurts so Good E5 6b The roof crack. For the masochist in you.

Pollit Bureau E1 5b
The dirty crack out of the start of Split Traverse, V3. No lower-off, never climbed.
1 The Smithsonian Institute of Projects 6c
Bolts look in a bad way. Looks like a poor route, not really worth replacing anything.
2 Split Infinity Direct 6c
BMC inspection pass/rings fitted. Pro bolts replaced with resins.

3 Split Infinity 6b
Worthwhile warm-up. Pro bolts in good condition, they could do with a coat of sealant to keep them good for longer. One resin pro bolt added on lip of roof, still a reach to clip but much better than before.
4 The Pain, the Pain, It Hurts so Good E5 6b
The roof crack. For the masochist in you.

2. Mumbo Jumbo Area - North Wales Limestone

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tommycham	Latest page update: made by tommycham , Oct 22 2011, 1:48 PM EDT (about this update About This Update Edited by tommycham 23 words added view changes - complete history)
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petejh

Taipan

May 26 2011, 4:02 AM EDT by GroundUp

Thread started: Apr 25 2011, 3:58 PM EDT Watch

Cleaned and climbed this the other day, I think this may have lost a hold below the first roof, there's a rock scar and a block on the floor which looks like it may have come out of the route? It's definitely lost a large block from the finish because we crow-barred it off before it fell. The crux felt desperate, the way we did it involved an unlikely heelhook, perhaps soft 7c? I think this is a really good route, similar in style and quality to Tomorrow People.

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MikeRaine

Thanks

Mar 28 2009, 5:50 PM EDT by MikeRaine

Thread started: Mar 28 2009, 5:50 PM EDT Watch

Thanks for the excellent work here folks, well done and cheers

Mike

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