7. Dive, Dive Dive to End of the Road

String of Pearls area

1 Dive, Dive, Dive 7b BMC inspections complete, Pull Thro' Rings Fitted July 08 Bolts re-spaced, no longer such a potential for smacking the ramp on the traverse. 2 Crunchy Toad IX** 7a+ * BMC inspections complete, Pull Thro' Rings Fitted, 3 x new resin pro-bolts installed July 08. 3 White Seam E3 5c Poor route. BMC inspections complete, Pull Thro' Rings Fitted. Nov 07 4 Melkor E3 5c Good route past the thread. 5 Pen Trwyn Patrol E4 6a New twin resin bolt lower lower/off -BMC inspections complete, Pull Thro' Rings Fitted. Nov 07. First bolt badly placed; loads biner over an edge. 2nd bolt replaced with 10mm Fixe resin. Would this be better with one more bolt at 7a? (PH) Flying Lizard E2 5c Amnesia Seizure E3 5c Funky Dunky E1 5b Up to the Hilt E6 6c The Psychophant Roof E5 6b Krankenstein E5 6a Gorgo E5 6a	6 Cornhollio 7a+ ** Direct start to The Nut Cluster, superseding that route. Really good. 7 The Pirates of Pen Trwyn 6c+ * New twin resin bolt lower lower/off (below hollow area of rock). Both bolt runners replaced with 10mm fixe resin - old holes need filling. A great route that would would benefit from re-spacing the bolts and adding one more. 8 String of Pearls 6b+ * BMC inspections complete, Pull Thro' Rings Fitted. Nov 07 9 Pale Shelter E1 5b ** BMC inspections complete, Pull Thro' Rings Fitted. Nov 07 10 Second Sense E4 6a 11 Lemon Entry 6c Needs re-gearing. Borogrove E6 6c Funky Dung E1 5b The Continuing Adventures of Charlton Chestwig E4 6a Charlton Chestwig (The World's Finest Climber) E5 6b Cool Water E1 5b Too Much, Too Young, Too Soon E2 5c Too Little, Too Old, Too Late E3 5c

1 Dive, Dive, Dive 7b **
BMC inspections complete, Pull Thro' Rings Fitted July 08
Bolts re-spaced, no longer such a potential for smacking the ramp on the traverse.

2 Crunchy Toad IX 7a+ *
BMC inspections complete, Pull Thro' Rings Fitted, 3 x new resin pro-bolts installed July 08.

3 White Seam E3 5c
Poor route. BMC inspections complete, Pull Thro' Rings Fitted. Nov 07
4 Melkor E3 5c **
Good route past the thread.
5 Pen Trwyn Patrol E4 6a **
New twin resin bolt lower lower/off -BMC inspections complete, Pull Thro' Rings Fitted. Nov 07. First bolt badly placed; loads biner over an edge. 2nd bolt replaced with 10mm Fixe resin.
Would this be better with one more bolt at 7a? (PH)

Flying Lizard E2 5c
Amnesia Seizure E3 5c
Funky Dunky E1 5b
Up to the Hilt E6 6c
The Psychophant Roof E5 6b
Krankenstein E5 6a
Gorgo E5 6a

6 Cornhollio 7a+ **
Direct start to The Nut Cluster, superseding that route. Really good.
7 The Pirates of Pen Trwyn 6c+ ***
New twin resin bolt lower lower/off (below hollow area of rock). Both bolt runners replaced with 10mm fixe resin - old holes need filling. A great route that would would benefit from re-spacing the bolts and adding one more.
8 String of Pearls 6b+ ***
BMC inspections complete, Pull Thro' Rings Fitted. Nov 07
9 Pale Shelter E1 5b **
BMC inspections complete, Pull Thro' Rings Fitted. Nov 07
10 Second Sense E4 6a
11 Lemon Entry 6c
Needs re-gearing.

Borogrove E6 6c
Funky Dung E1 5b
The Continuing Adventures of Charlton Chestwig E4 6a
Charlton Chestwig (The World's Finest Climber) E5 6b

Cool Water E1 5b
Too Much, Too Young, Too Soon E2 5c
Too Little, Too Old, Too Late E3 5c

Menincursion area

1 Spine Chill 6c+ * BMC inspections complete, up-graded lower/off. Pull-thro' rings fitted. Nov 07 New resin pro-bolts (3) 2 Blackwall Tunnel 7a+ * 3 new resin bolts. Shares l-off with Spine Chill. 3 Menincursion 6c+ ** A great route with a difficult finish. BMC inspections complete. Rings fitted, one bolt added between 1st and 2nd. 4 The Peppermint Pig E3 6a * Good route. Now has it's own lower-off. Route cleaned. 5 Willowbrooks Direct 7a+ * 6 The Lull 7b *	7 Willowbrooks 7a * BMC lower off belay inspections complete, Pull thro' rings fitted. 8 Storm Warning 7a * BMC inspections complete. Rebolted with resins. 9 Drip, Drip, Drip Direct 7a (The rockfax fella's obviously never climbed these routes when they wrote the book. This doesn't 'supersede the original' as it says, it's just a very hard boulder problem of average quality. ph) 10 Drip, Drip Drip** 6c * Rebolted with resins. (Very good route worth 2 stars, much better than the direct.ph) 11 Wet Dreams 7a * Rebolted with resins.

1 Spine Chill 6c+ *
BMC inspections complete, up-graded lower/off. Pull-thro' rings fitted. Nov 07 New resin pro-bolts (3)
2 Blackwall Tunnel 7a+ *
3 new resin bolts. Shares l-off with Spine Chill.
3 Menincursion 6c+ **
A great route with a difficult finish. BMC inspections complete. Rings fitted, one bolt added between 1st and 2nd.
4 The Peppermint Pig E3 6a *
Good route. Now has it's own lower-off. Route cleaned.
5 Willowbrooks Direct 7a+ *
6 The Lull 7b *

7 Willowbrooks 7a *
BMC lower off belay inspections complete, Pull thro' rings fitted.
8 Storm Warning 7a *
BMC inspections complete. Rebolted with resins.
9 Drip, Drip, Drip Direct 7a **
(The rockfax fella's obviously never climbed these routes when they wrote the book. This doesn't 'supersede the original' as it says, it's just a very hard boulder problem of average quality. ph)
10 Drip, Drip Drip 6c *
Rebolted with resins. (Very good route worth 2 stars, much better than the direct.ph)
11 Wet Dreams 7a *
Rebolted with resins.

1 Captain Percival 6a+ * BMC Inspection complete. Pull thro' rings fitted 2 Clutching at Straws 6b * Hard start. Shares lower-off with Captain Percival Another Christmas Tree Direct E2 5b Salty Dog E1 5b Pure Mania E4 5c Let's Lynch the Landlord E2 5b Winterrise E2 5b Secondhand Daylight E3 6a	Nameless E4 6b Rising diagonal traverse. Shares L/off with Willowbrook Washington Waltz E5 6b Pointless high level traverse. Shares L/off with Storm Warning Dave's Rent a Drill Co E2 5b Baggy Wrinkle E2 5b Once Upon a Time E4 6a Night Time Rendevous E3 6a Nightwatch E4 6b

1 Captain Percival 6a+ *
BMC Inspection complete. Pull thro' rings fitted
2 Clutching at Straws 6b *
Hard start. Shares lower-off with Captain Percival

Another Christmas Tree Direct E2 5b
Salty Dog E1 5b
Pure Mania E4 5c
Let's Lynch the Landlord E2 5b
Winterrise E2 5b
Secondhand Daylight E3 6a

Nameless E4 6b
Rising diagonal traverse. Shares L/off with Willowbrook
Washington Waltz E5 6b
Pointless high level traverse. Shares L/off with Storm Warning

Dave's Rent a Drill Co E2 5b
Baggy Wrinkle E2 5b
Once Upon a Time E4 6a
Night Time Rendevous E3 6a
Nightwatch E4 6b

Thin Red Line area

Abducted by Aliens 6c+ Don't know where this goes. 1 2211 7a+ * Rings fitted.	2 Ten Forty 7a * Rings fitted.(Thought this was pretty good and worth a star. ph) 3 Karaoke Club 7a+ Good climbing, climb to the right of the bolts. 3rd bolt hard to clip (good but not 2 star? ph). I did this after my mate pulled off the large finishing hold above the crux. I think it's now 7b and felt harder than The Lull which I did just before. Lee**

Abducted by Aliens 6c+
Don't know where this goes.
1 2211 7a+ *
Rings fitted.

2 Ten Forty 7a *
Rings fitted.(Thought this was pretty good and worth a star. ph)
3 Karaoke Club 7a+ **
Good climbing, climb to the right of the bolts. 3rd bolt hard to clip (good but not 2 star? ph). I did this after my mate pulled off the large finishing hold above the crux. I think it's now 7b and felt harder than The Lull which I did just before. Lee

4 Thin Red Line 7a+ ** Rebolted with resins, 08/10.	5 Blue Steel 7c ** Needs re-equipping.

4 Thin Red Line 7a+ **
Rebolted with resins, 08/10.

5 Blue Steel 7c **
Needs re-equipping.

Homo Sapien area

1 Candle in the Wind 7a+ * BMC inspections complete, Pull Thro' Rings Fitted. 2 The Eleventh Hour 6c L/off as for Candle in the Wind. pro bolts ok 3 Sonic Sinbad 7a * L/off as for The Thin Turquoise Line. 4 The Thin Turquoise Line 6c+ * BMC inspections complete, Pull Thro' Rings Fitted. Nov 07 pro bolts ok 5 Homo Erectus 7b ** L/off as Homo Spaien,pro bolts ok (extra bolt added but the route needs its own belay! The top is really mossy and a bit loose - best to finish at The Thin Turquoise Line lower off.	6 Homo Sapien 7a+ * BMC inspections complete, Pull Thro' Rings Fitted. Nov 07,pro bolts ok 7 White Hopes 7b * 4 x new pro-bolts (resin) BMC inspections complete, Pull Thro' Rings Fitted. Nov 07. PH did it 2 years ago and it felt more E6 than 7b. dangerous. 5 bolts needed. 8 Snakes and Ladders 7c+ * BMC inspections complete, Pull Thro' Rings Fitted. Nov 07 pro bolts ok 9 Severine 7b+ Eco pro-Bolts OK- L/off as Snakes & ladders. Feels nails for 7b+ (PH)

1 Candle in the Wind 7a+ *
BMC inspections complete, Pull Thro' Rings Fitted.
2 The Eleventh Hour 6c
L/off as for Candle in the Wind. pro bolts ok
3 Sonic Sinbad 7a *
L/off as for The Thin Turquoise Line.
4 The Thin Turquoise Line 6c+ *
BMC inspections complete, Pull Thro' Rings Fitted. Nov 07 pro bolts ok
5 Homo Erectus 7b **
L/off as Homo Spaien,pro bolts ok (extra bolt added but the route needs its own belay! The top is really mossy and a bit loose - best to finish at The Thin Turquoise Line lower off.

6 Homo Sapien 7a+ ***
BMC inspections complete, Pull Thro' Rings Fitted. Nov 07,pro bolts ok
7 White Hopes 7b ***
4 x new pro-bolts (resin) BMC inspections complete, Pull Thro' Rings Fitted. Nov 07. PH did it 2 years ago and it felt more E6 than 7b. dangerous. 5 bolts needed.
8 Snakes and Ladders 7c+ ***
BMC inspections complete, Pull Thro' Rings Fitted. Nov 07 pro bolts ok
9 Severine 7b+ **
Eco pro-Bolts OK- L/off as Snakes & ladders. Feels nails for 7b+ (PH)

Gold Coast area

1 After the Fact E4 6b L/off as for Snakes & ladders 2 Raw 7a+ Rinsg fitted. Top two bolts replaced and an extra bolt added. Felt more like 7b - the first move is probably English 6c on it's own! (Lee) 3 The Gold Coast** E3 5c * Rings fitted. 4 Poison Rain E3 6a Needs bolting up.	5 Watch Your Poison 7b * Needs re-equipping. 6 Loose Lingo E4 6a Poor route, old bolt. Chock-a-Block E1 5b Friends and Relatives E4 6b Neighbours E3 5c

1 After the Fact E4 6b
L/off as for Snakes & ladders
2 Raw 7a+ **
Rinsg fitted. Top two bolts replaced and an extra bolt added. Felt more like 7b - the first move is probably English 6c on it's own! (Lee)
3 The Gold Coast E3 5c *
Rings fitted.
4 Poison Rain E3 6a
Needs bolting up.

5 Watch Your Poison 7b *
Needs re-equipping.
6 Loose Lingo E4 6a
Poor route, old bolt.

Chock-a-Block E1 5b
Friends and Relatives E4 6b
Neighbours E3 5c

Small Bore area

1 Absolute Beginners E2 5b 'Do not climb!' according to rf. 2 Frontiers of Reality 6a+ Needs re-equipping. 3 Michelle's Pillar E1 5b 4 Small Bore 6b+ * Tiny but worthwhile, feels at least 6c to o/s.	5 Bore In 6a+ Re-equipped with staples, 08/10. Rather dirty after third bolt - 16/10/11. The Cresta Run VS Lucky Eddie E2 5c Helgar's Fury E3 5c Hagar the Horrible HVS 5a

1 Absolute Beginners E2 5b
'Do not climb!' according to rf.
2 Frontiers of Reality 6a+
Needs re-equipping.
3 Michelle's Pillar E1 5b
4 Small Bore 6b+ *
Tiny but worthwhile, feels at least 6c to o/s.

5 Bore In 6a+
Re-equipped with staples, 08/10. Rather dirty after third bolt - 16/10/11.

The Cresta Run VS
Lucky Eddie E2 5c
Helgar's Fury E3 5c
Hagar the Horrible HVS 5a

Happening Boys
Happening Boys area

1 Counting Crows 7c Needs re-equipping 2 The Happening Boys E4 6a Could be a good 6c+ if re-geared.	The Beji Boys E2 5c Straw Frogs E4 6a Last Straw E4 6a Sucking the Short Straw E3 5c Riddler on the Roof E3 6b Drawing the Short Straw E4 6b Clutching at Starws Direct E3 6b

1 Counting Crows 7c
Needs re-equipping
2 The Happening Boys E4 6a
Could be a good 6c+ if re-geared.

The Beji Boys E2 5c
Straw Frogs E4 6a
Last Straw E4 6a
Sucking the Short Straw E3 5c
Riddler on the Roof E3 6b
Drawing the Short Straw E4 6b
Clutching at Starws Direct E3 6b

The End of the Road
7. Dive, Dive Dive to End of the Road - North Wales Limestone

1 More Quizzical than Physical 7b+ ** Rings fitted. Needs re-gearing 2 Physical Abuse 7b+ * Rings fitted. Needs re-gearing. 3 Eco-Mouse 7b *	4 Treat me Like a Person 6a+ * Rings fitted. 5 Years of Abuse 6b+ Rings fitted. Needs re-equipping. 6 Reading Henry by the Road 6a+

1 More Quizzical than Physical 7b+ **
Rings fitted. Needs re-gearing
2 Physical Abuse 7b+ *
Rings fitted. Needs re-gearing.
3 Eco-Mouse 7b *

4 Treat me Like a Person 6a+ *
Rings fitted.
5 Years of Abuse 6b+
Rings fitted. Needs re-equipping.
6 Reading Henry by the Road 6a+

Pen Trwyn - Home

rogerwhetton	Latest page update: made by rogerwhetton , Oct 17 2011, 4:58 AM EDT (about this update About This Update Edited by rogerwhetton 7 words added view changes - complete history)
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Lee_Proctor

More Quizzical than Physical

Jun 4 2010, 6:46 AM EDT by MikeRaine

Thread started: May 27 2010, 10:26 AM EDT Watch

This is absolutely desperate it aint got no holds!! Is there a trick or has something come off? its a great line that definately needs rebolting along with Physical Abuse

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pete_robins

cornhillio

May 24 2010, 8:50 AM EDT by pete_robins

Thread started: May 24 2010, 8:50 AM EDT Watch

where does this go?
Did Nut cluster direct start the other day, up the pillar, very good, better than Pirates, what grade is this?

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drewsh

Homo Erectus

May 12 2010, 5:19 AM EDT by ksjs

Thread started: Apr 3 2010, 1:34 PM EDT Watch

Dogged up this and its a real shame that its so mossy and dirty at the top and that it doesnt have its own lower off, can i or someone put some bolts in... ive got no experience but would love the oppertunity to learn. The route should see more traffic!