Craig y ForwynThis is a featured page

BMC negotiate access to the left-hand side of Craig y Forwyn, Staircase gully and all routes to the left. Negotiations continue for the rest of the crag.

Keep an eye on the BMC's RAD data base for further access update
Access was originally lost due to parking issues and antisocial behaviour so it is essential that you follow the new parking advice. It is vital that you do not park on the verges off the Issalt Road – otherwise access will be lost again.

How to access Craig y Forwyn
Do not park on the verges or in front of houses onTrawscoed Road or anywhere onIssalt Road.The correct parking is located at a hairpin bend off Trawscoed Road, through the left hand gate into the field, park on the grass on the left-hand up-hill side (not on downside above slope to crag) OS Grid 902(5) 764(5) if it is too boggy it would be fine to park a couple of vehicles on the main track in the field,don't worryabout blocking the farmer's access as Bob Jones (the land owner) says he will be able to get around if required on his quad or 4 wheel-drive. He told the BMC Cymru Officer that heis very thankful that we (climbers) don't leave litter.

Criag y Forwyn Parking
To get to this spot: drive along the Isallt Rd. below the escarpment, passing Plas Newydd Caravan Park. At 2 km beyond the caravan park, follow the road as it bends to the right to pass a Chapel on the right. At the following T-junction, turn right and proceed along Dolwen Rd. for approximately 200m until a sharp right turn along Trawscoed Rd. Pass along Trawscoed Rd. for approximately 900m (the last 100m are quite rough) until a sharp right hand hairpin with two gates on the left. Go through the metal gate and park on the grass above the farmers track/North Wales Footpath.

OR (better) drive as you would do to get to Castle Inn quarry but do not turn down the lane to Castle Inn. Instead carry on past the Semaphore Inn and the school. At a grassed area turn left onto Trawscoed road. Saves driving down the lane.



Approach this wayAccessing the crag from the agreed parking is easy and convenient - walk from down the inclined field and head for a stile in the right hand corner. This will take you directly into the left hand sections of the crag.

A map will soon be available on the BMC website.

View the Regional Access Database entry for Craig y Forwyn - for the first time ever with with a green "access OK" symbol!
Local climbers have been very busy clearing a path along the bottom of the crag and gardening some routes. Following some recent concerns please be sure to follow these guidelines:
  • Keep the noise down – it travels very easily in this valley
  • Go to the toilet before visiting the crag (or bury it at the very least please – the woodland around the crag is used for firewood collection by the land owners)
  • Only park at the designated location, the gate has been re-hung and at present the parking site is in good order though this will be monitored. To reduce the number of vehicles here, consider parking at Castle Inn quarry and sharing cars. It’s probably best not to park at the top of the lane (village green) so as not to antagonise locals.
    The Crag is loose, proper trad, wear helmets. It is not suitable for large groups of novices or those with little or no trad experience.


    CCW Section 28 consent for route restoration by the BMC
    There is an official consent in place for the left hand end of the crag only from the CCW to carry out operations identified in a notice dated 10th Jan 2009 . It allows rock climbing for a year from 21st Jan 2009. It also relates to specified work at Craig-y-Forwyn for a trial period of one year from 21st Jan - 28th Feb 2009 and between 1st August 2009 - 21st Jan 2010. The entire document should be consulted as it gives full details of the conditions, a map and identifies with photos those plants that can and cannot be touched. See each of the links below.
    1. http://attachments.wetpaintserv.us/d7e9ilwHD7fEyfwD%24UhxJw%3D%3D1825280
    2. http://attachments.wetpaintserv.us/EStNxzKRpV3R4C1Iu2x8tA%3D%3D1016320
    3. http://attachments.wetpaintserv.us/78V%24nFhmaZO5mBTpor8n6w%3D%3D1338880


  • For gardening advice please see terms of CCW consent on the above attachment.
  • Descent; there are some ab stations and Staircase gully or the left-hand end.
  • It is inappropriate at the present time to replace existing bolts because of the noise issue, . Fixed gear should be replaced like for like, but on a route by route basis there may be routes that don’t need fixed gear now. Please use tat in neutral colours.


    There is no access from below the crag.


      DOWN LOAD OLD GUIDE BOOK FROM CC website : http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/downloads/forwyn_lr.pdf
    • To the Routes Page
















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      chrisparkin       		Latest page update: made by chrisparkin , Oct 1 2009, 5:28 PM EDT (about this update About This Update chrisparkin Edited by chrisparkin

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      MikeRaine Latest news 2 Apr 29 2009, 5:33 AM EDT by alunallcock
      Thread started: Feb 3 2009, 5:27 PM EST  Watch
      I have hard copies of the latest permission and agreement with CCW to climb in the SSSI. It basically gives permission for the gardening already done on the left hand end of the crag. Send me an SAE 16 Goodman Street Llanberis LL55 4HL if you'd like a copy.
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      MikeRaine Fixed Gear 3 Dec 28 2008, 6:23 PM EST by JBertalot
      Thread started: Dec 12 2008, 5:53 AM EST  Watch
      Wouldn't it be nice if we could reclimb all the routes without any fixed gear?
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      Attachments

      Word Document Craig-y-Forwyn. Activists guidance map doc..doc (Word Document - 1,308k)
      posted by rockcat   Feb 5 2009, 8:01 AM EST
      C-y-F CCW consent map.
      Word Document Craig-y-Forwyn. Activists guidance 2 doc..doc (Word Document - 992k)
      posted by rockcat   Feb 5 2009, 8:00 AM EST
      C-y-F CCW consent doc. 2
      Word Document Craig-y-Forwyn. Activists guidance 1 doc..doc (Word Document - 1,782k)
      posted by rockcat   Feb 5 2009, 7:58 AM EST
      C-y-F CCW consent doc. 1