Llanddulas Cave has been subject to a lot of development and refurbishment in 2008/09 involving new routes and re-bolting of routes that have had their hangers removed and hence had not been climbed for many years. Some lower-off positions have been improved.

In 2011 there was much further activity, a number of new crags were developed and the venue now features the following sectors: Forgotten Sun Area / The Upper Cave / KO Wall / Golf Ball Wall / The Tower

It is featured in the A55 Sport Climbs - second edition guide published by Pesda Press (Dec. 2011). All feedback is appreciated on Grades / Stars or anything else and can be sent to: mjdoyle1@yahoo.com


The Upper Cave Area

L-R

1. Karmic Wind F6a+* 18m.
Cleaned and Re-bolted: M. Burrows. 2008
F.A.: P. Hawkins 1995

2. Mind Light F6a+* 18m New.
F.A.: M. Burrows 2008

3. Spider Mite F6b** 18m New (could do with a couple more bolts, Lee) (it now has them, Mike)
F.A.: T. Shelmerdine 2008

4. Llanddulas Ditchwater F6c Now with lower off.
F.A.: C. Struthers, S. Siddique

5. Early Bird Bolted 2011. F6b

In the cave:
6. Upside Doom F7c* - New
F.A.: C. Doyle 29/06/10

7. Main Overhang A2. Re-bolted 2011.

8. Temple of Gloom F8b - New
F.A.: C. Doyle 24/06/10

9. Lord Nibbler F6b* - New
F.A.: T. Shelmerdine 16/09/10

10. Guano On Sight F6a+ **. New Bolts 01/09/09
F.A.: T.Hodgson, S.Chesslet, I.Jones 29/06/84

11. Adolescent Stimuli F6b* New
F.A.: G. Davidson, M. Doyle 01/09/09

12. Rosalind Franklins Picture 51 F5 New
F.A.: M.Doyle 10/09/09

13. Zoidberg F6c New
F.A.: T. Shelmerdine 01/09/09

14. Doomside Up. F7a New
F.A.: C. Doyle 28/06/10


Out of the cave:

15. The Wirral Whip F7c+ * New hangers installed and new belay added (Lee)
F.A.: M. Collins 11.86


16. Mudjekeewis F7c ** Hangers (7b+? JR). One resin bolt added to lower-off.
F.A.: P. Hawkins 1995


17. Pearl from the Shell F6c+** New resin bolts Oct. 2007. Twin Bolt lower-off.
F.A.: T. Hodgeson, S. Chesslet 27.6.84

18. Sticky Fingers F7b+*. New resin bolts Oct 2007. Twin bolt lower-off. Shares lower-off with Pearl.
F.A.: T. Shelmerdine 1996 (grade about right, pete)

19. Searching F6c+ * New resin bolts Oct 2007. Twin Bolt lower-off. Badly positioned bolts, although last bolt on El Tigre can be clipped with a long draw for the moves to the belay. Now with an extra bolt (9/9/9)
F.A.: T. Hodgeson, S. Chesslet, P. Custy 27.6.84

20. El Tigre F7b * Technical.
F.A.: P. Hawkins 1998. This newly bolted version: T. Chamings. T. Shelmerdine. 2008

21. PC Wimpout F6a+* Cleaned and re-equipped. T. Shelmerdine, N. Clacher, M. Burrows 07/08
F.A. at E2 5c: T. Hodgeson, S. Chesslet, P. Custy 27.6.84.

The next 3 routes start below the cave ledge.
22. Grog and the Donkey F6b+.** (5B) New.
F.A.: T. Shelmerdine, N. Clacher 09/08

23. Afterglow F6a+ * (5B)
Cleaned and retro-bolted: T. Shelmerdine, N. Clacher, M. Burrows 08/08
F.A.: at E2 5c: T. Hodgeson, S. Chesslet, P. Custy 27.6.84.

24. Turtle Tripler F6b (6B) New.
F.A.: Ria Roberts, T. Shelmerdine 01.06.09

Forgotten Sun Area

1. White Mans Burden F6b+ - re-bolted with resin bolts 05/06/09. Shares lower off with Ralarwdins

2. Ralarwdins F6b - good staples now with clip in lower offs installed.

3. Stretcharmstrong F6c+ - good staples. New lower offs installed 02/06/09

4. The Man with the India-rubber Head F6a - good staples

5. Udder Head F6a - good staples

6. Name of the Pose F6a+ - good staples. Now with an independant start and extra bolt.

7. Clipterfyn F5+ - New
(I. Andrews, M.Doyle 29/05/09)

8. Poet Lariat F6a - New . Start at the white streak to gain the ledge.
(M. Doyle 03/05/09)

9. Not Runout Groove F5+ * New. An alternative start to Runout Groove at a more consistent grade. Start by clipping the first bolt of Field of Dreams and trend left to mantle the ledge. Pull right easily to access the groove.
(M. Doyle, M. Lally 02/06/09)

10. Runout Groove. F6b*The original Way. Now fully bolted. Start as for Field of Dreams and clip the first 3 bolts of that route before continuing in the groove.

11. Field of Dreams F6b+ - New bolts

12. Construction of Meaning. F7a - Start as for Field of Dreams and trend right above the cave to climb a seemingly blank wall.
(T.Shelmerdine, N. Clacher)

13. Crack of Dawn F6a+ New . Start at a crack at the left end of the scooped cave by the tree.
(N. Clacher, T. Shelmerdine, 12/03/09)

14. Gone Down Under F7b No Bolts - needs re-equipping but doesn't seem worth the trouble. (P. Smith 1998)

15. Prime the Pump F7b ** Good staples.
(M.Griffiths 1995)

16. Pump Action F7b+ (P. Hawkins 1998) (bottom three bolts replaced - feels like 7a/7a+ not 7b+, Lee. I agree, prob only 6c+, pete, how did you get it so wrong perry!). Now fully re-bolted with a chain lower-off.

17. Trail of the Snail F6b Re-bolted 06/09

18. Forgotten Sun F6b+ - good staples. Now with an extra bolt to start.

19. A Brief History of Lime (was yet another "Nameless") F6c - good staples

20. Duckworth Lewis F6b+ Start just left of cave mouth.
(N.Clacher, T. Shelmerdine 11/03/09)

21. Milo F6b Start at Cave Mouth.
(N. Clacher, T. Shelmerdine 08/06/09)