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Llandulas Cave
Llanddulas Cave has been subject to a lot of development and refurbishment in 2008/09 involving new routes and re-bolting of routes that have had their hangers removed and hence had not been climbed for many years. Some lower-off positions have been improved. It will feature in the forthcoming A55 Sport Climbing Crags guide currently being prepared. All feedback is appreciated on Grades / Stars or anything else and can be sent to: mjdoyle1@yahoo.com
The Upper Cave Area
1. Karmic Wind F6a+* 18m.
Cleaned and Re-bolted: M. Burrows. 2008
F.A.: P. Hawkins 1995
2. Mind Light F6a+* 18m New.
F.A.: M. Burrows 2008
3. Spider Mite F6b* 18m New (could do with a couple more bolts, Lee) (it now has them, Mike)
F.A.: T. Shelmerdine 2008
4. Llanddulas Ditchwater F6c Petzl hangers, not verified, no lower off. Finish on top, bolt belay.
F.A.: C. Struthers, S. Siddique
5. Early Bird E3 5c. Loose.
6. Main Overhang A2. Rotting gear.
7. Guano On Sight E2 5c *.
8. The Wirral Whip F7c+ * New hangers installed and new belay added (Lee)
F.A.: M. Collins 11.86
9. Mudjekeewis F7c ** Hangers (7b+? JR)
F.A.: P. Hawkins 1995
The Upper Cave Area1. Karmic Wind F6a+* 18m.
Cleaned and Re-bolted: M. Burrows. 2008
F.A.: P. Hawkins 1995
2. Mind Light F6a+* 18m New.
F.A.: M. Burrows 2008
3. Spider Mite F6b* 18m New (could do with a couple more bolts, Lee) (it now has them, Mike)
F.A.: T. Shelmerdine 2008
4. Llanddulas Ditchwater F6c Petzl hangers, not verified, no lower off. Finish on top, bolt belay.
F.A.: C. Struthers, S. Siddique
5. Early Bird E3 5c. Loose.
6. Main Overhang A2. Rotting gear.
7. Guano On Sight E2 5c *.
8. The Wirral Whip F7c+ * New hangers installed and new belay added (Lee)
F.A.: M. Collins 11.86
9. Mudjekeewis F7c ** Hangers (7b+? JR)
F.A.: P. Hawkins 1995
10. Pearl from the Shell F6c+** New resin bolts Oct. 2007. Twin Bolt lower-off.
F.A.: T. Hodgeson, S. Chesslet 27.6.84
11. Sticky Fingers F7b+*. New resin bolts Oct 2007. Twin bolt lower-off. Shares lower-off with Pearl. F.A.: T. Shelmerdine 1996 (grade about right, pete)
12. Searching F6c+ * New resin bolts Oct 2007. Twin Bolt lower-off. Badly positioned bolts, although last bolt on El Tigre can be clipped with a long draw for the moves to the belay. Now with an extra bolt (9/9/9)
F.A.: T. Hodgeson, S. Chesslet, P. Custy 27.6.84
13. El Tigre F7b * Technical.
F.A.: P. Hawkins 1998. This newly bolted version: T. Chamings. T. Shelmerdine. 2008
14. PC Wimpout F6a+* Cleaned and re-equipped. T. Shelmerdine, N. Clacher, M. Burrows 07/08
F.A. at E2 5c: T. Hodgeson, S. Chesslet, P. Custy 27.6.84.
The next 3 routes start below the cave ledge.
15. Grog and the Donkey F6b+.** (5B) New.
F.A.: T. Shelmerdine, N. Clacher 09/08
16. Afterglow F6a+ * (5B)
Cleaned and retro-bolted: T. Shelmerdine, N. Clacher, M. Burrows 08/08
F.A. at E2 5c: T. Hodgeson, S. Chesslet, P. Custy 27.6.84.
17. Turtle Tripler F6b (6B) New. F.A.: Ria Roberts, T. Shelmerdine 01.06.09Forgotten Sun Area1. White Honkey F6b+ - re-bolted with resin bolts 05/06/09. Shares lower off with Ralarwdins2. Ralarwdins F6b - good staples now with clip in lower offs installed.3. Stretcharmstrong F6c+ - good staples. New lower offs installed 02/06/094. The Man with the Indiarubber Head F6a - good staples5. Udder Head F6a - good staples6. Name of the Pose F6a+ - good staples. Now with an independant start and extra bolt.7. Clipterfyn F5+ - New Route. (I. Andrews, M.Doyle 29/05/09)8. Poet Lariat F6a - New Route. Start at the white streak to gain the ledge. (M. Doyle 03/05/09)9. Not Runout Groove F5+ * New. An alternative start to Runout Groove at a more consistent grade. Start by clipping the first bolt of Field of Dreams and trend left to mantle the ledge. Pull right easily to access the groove. M. Doyle, M. Lally 02/06/0910. Runout Groove. F6b*The original Way. Now fully bolted. Start as for Field of Dreams and clip the first 3 bolts of that route before continuing in the groove.11. Field of Dreams F6b+ - New bolts12. Construction of Meaning. F7a - Start as for Field of Dreams and trend right above the cave to climb a seemingly blank wall. (T.Shelmerdine, N. Clacher)13. Crack of Dawn F6a+ New route. Start at a crack at the left end of the scooped cave by the tree. (N. Clacher, T. Shelmerdine, 12/03/09)14. Gone Down Under F7b No Bolts - needs re-equipping but doesn't seem worth the trouble. (P. Smith 1998)15. Prime the Pump F7b ** Good staples.(M.Griffiths 1995)16. Pump Action F7b+ (P. Hawkins 1998) (bottom three bolts replaced - feels like 7a/7a+ not 7b+, Lee. I agree, prob only 6c+, pete, how did you get it so wrong perry!). Now fully re-bolted with a chain lower-off.17. Trail of the Snail F6b Re-bolted 06/0918. Forgotten Sun F6b+ - good staples. Now with an extra bolt to start.19. Not Miss Whiplash (was yet another "Nameless") F6c - good staples20. Duckworth Lewis F6b+ New route. Start just left of cave mouth. (N.Clacher, T. Shelmerdine 11/03/09)21. Milo F6b New route. Start at Cave Mouth. (N. Clacher, T. Shelmerdine 08/06/09)
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rockcat |
Latest page update: made by rockcat
, Nov 7 2009, 12:53 PM EST
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| Started By | Thread Subject | Replies | Last Post | ||
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| JBertalot | New boulder problem | 3 | Aug 28 2009, 5:46 AM EDT by rockcat | ||
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Thread started: Aug 12 2009, 11:22 AM EDT
Watch
I recently cleaned and climbed a cool boulder problem in the cave left of Prime the Pump...
On the inside left wall, there's a traverse line of flake undercuts, leading to a cool roof covered in mini-stalagtites. Start at the cave entrance, traverse in on the flakes and get established on the roof (crux), cross this rightwards and finish matched on a sloping shelf on the right. The cave is often wet, but this wall seems to stay dry. I've cleaned the only holds you'll need and the friction is amazing - like sandpaper. It's a bit esoteric... a headtorch helps! The Portcullis V6 (I think) |
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| stevewong | Mind Light | 0 | Jun 30 2009, 3:19 AM EDT by stevewong | ||
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Thread started: Jun 30 2009, 3:19 AM EDT
Watch
This route is a little easier than Karmic Wind but better rock. I think its a really good route, varied and on nice rock. A surprising find!
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| stevewong | Searching | 0 | Jun 30 2009, 3:18 AM EDT by stevewong | ||
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Thread started: Jun 30 2009, 3:18 AM EDT
Watch
Has the top wall lost a foothold or something? Seems much harder now than I remember it: certainly quite a bit harder than el Tigre just to the right.
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