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Lower Pen Trwyn
Seeing as the '97 Rockfax is now out of print and North Wales Rock contains only a limited route
selection for the Ormes, it seemed like a good idea to produce a topo for those who don't own a copy
of the Rockfax.
Approach
Carefully hop over the wall opposite Parisella's Cave and descend the steep gully. The traditionally used descent gully is
showing increased signs of wear and further stabilization will be difficult due to the erosion being down to the bed rock
and the desire not to attract ordinary tourists into the area. An alternative descent has been suggested and it would be
good for climbers to experiment with this and give feedback on this website through the comments facility. Suggested
alternative approach: Just beyond the toll house, where the road narrows at another gate, cross the wall and
head directly down a grassy spur which leads to a short easy rock scramble and the beach.
General.
Following re-bolting work every route has had its lower-off checked and where necessary a new lower-off fitted, in
addition, the most popular routes have had lower-off rings fitted to eliminate wear on the bolts.PLEASE THREAD THE RINGS! Nearly every route now has resin protection bolts; on those which don't (She's a beach, Life's a Beach, the top of Fair Sized Fish, Golden Pond), the stainless expansion bolts appear to be in good condition i.e. light rust staining only as of Summer '09. Any decisions made about the safety of bolts are your own.
Tides
Plan for approx 3 - 4 hours climbing time either side of low tide depending on moon state (you get longest on a
spring tide). Check here for Llandudno tide times (add 1 hour for BST): Tide Times
selection for the Ormes, it seemed like a good idea to produce a topo for those who don't own a copy
of the Rockfax.
Approach
Carefully hop over the wall opposite Parisella's Cave and descend the steep gully. The traditionally used descent gully is
showing increased signs of wear and further stabilization will be difficult due to the erosion being down to the bed rock
and the desire not to attract ordinary tourists into the area. An alternative descent has been suggested and it would be
good for climbers to experiment with this and give feedback on this website through the comments facility. Suggested
alternative approach: Just beyond the toll house, where the road narrows at another gate, cross the wall and
head directly down a grassy spur which leads to a short easy rock scramble and the beach.
General.
Following re-bolting work every route has had its lower-off checked and where necessary a new lower-off fitted, in
addition, the most popular routes have had lower-off rings fitted to eliminate wear on the bolts.PLEASE THREAD THE RINGS! Nearly every route now has resin protection bolts; on those which don't (She's a beach, Life's a Beach, the top of Fair Sized Fish, Golden Pond), the stainless expansion bolts appear to be in good condition i.e. light rust staining only as of Summer '09. Any decisions made about the safety of bolts are your own.
Tides
Plan for approx 3 - 4 hours climbing time either side of low tide depending on moon state (you get longest on a
spring tide). Check here for Llandudno tide times (add 1 hour for BST): Tide Times
Boardwalk area.
| 1. Nameless 6c+ Shares lower-off with That's Where I'll Be. Tony Shelmerdine, 1996. 2. That's Where I'll Be 7a Eco bolts lower-off. Dave Lyon, 1988. 3. The Refrain 7b ** Dave Lyon, 1988. 4. Under the Boardwalk 6c *** M. Atkinson, Andy Pollitt, 28.8.1984. 5. On a Blanket with my Baby E3 5c, 5b Single bolt lower-off. Dave Lyon, P. Freeman, 1988. | 6. She's a Beach 7a * Shares lower-off with Under the Boardwalk. Fifth bolt is in a hollow area of rock, no solid alternatives exist. Dave Lyon, 1995. 7. Down by the Sea 7a+ * ( 'ard for 7a+! JR) Dave Lyon, 1987. 8. Life's a Beach 7b * Good route (PR). Re-equipped with extra bolts 19/9/10. Dave Lyon, 1990. 9. The Angel Project 8b/8b+? Open Project. |
Liquid Ambar area
| 1. Melanchollie 8b ** Adam Wainwright, August, 1992. 1a. Melancopout 8a+ * Chris Doyle, 7/5/2010 Step right at undercuts after start of Melancholie and finish up BB 1b. Melon Beach 8a+** Chris Doyle, 17/5/2010. Melancopout finishing up Mussel Beach. 2. I've Been a Bad, Bad Boy 7c/7c+ *** Mark Pretty, 19.8.1988. 3. Pas de Deux 8a+ * Neil Carson, July, 1995. 4. Mussel Beach 8a *** Mark Pretty, 9.7.1988. 5. Parasite 8a ** George Smith, 1990. 5a. Battle of the Parasites 7c/7c+ * Chris Doyle, 22.8.2009 6. Battle of the Little Big Orme 8a *** Chris Plant, 1990. | 7. Over the Moon Direct 8a ** Andy Hoffman, 1994. 7a. Moonwalk 8a+ *** Tommy Chamings, 22.8.2009 8. Over the Moon 8a *** Andy Pollitt, 30.6.1988. 9. The Walking Mussel 8b+ ** Neil Carson, June, 1995. 10. Seagull's Dilemma 8b+ Ben Moon, 1993. 11. Sea of Tranquility 8c+ ** Ben Moon, 1993. 12. Liquid Ambar 8c *** Jerry Moffatt, June, 1990. |
| 1.The Big Bang 9a *** Neil Carson, 1996. 2. Infanticide 8c ** Neil Carson, 1995. 3. Wild Understatement 8a+ ** George Smith, September, 1989. 4. Youthanasia 8b ** Steve Mayers, July, 1991. 4a. Wild Youth 8b/+ ** Pete Robins, 26/5/2010 Wild Understatement iinto Youthanasia 5. Statement of Youth 8a *** Ben Moon, 25.6.1984. | 6. Rompsville 7c ** Steve Lewis, 19.9.1984. 7. A Fair Sized Fish 7c+ ** George Smith, 1989. 8. Night Glue 7a+ *** (First bolt moves) Andy Pollitt, 21.9.1984. 9. Martha 7c ** Shares lower-off with Night Glue. P.Freeman, 10.7.1991. 10. Wall of Voodoo 7b * Andy Pollitt. 4.10.1984. |
Face Race area
| 1. Jacuzzi Jive E4 6a ** Dave Lyon, Chris Lyon, 21.7.83 2. Twisting by the Pool E4 6a ** Dave Lyon, Chris Lyon, 3.7.83 3. Tokoloshe Man E2 5c P.Williams, I.Sayers, 22.10.83 4. Voodoo Child 7a * A.Pollitt, P.Williams, M.Atkinson, 2.10.84 5. Passengers 6a+ D.Lyon, C.Stephenson, 1996. 6. The Cynical Pinnacle XS 5a P.Williams, I.Sayers, 11.10.83 7. The Pink Pinkie Snuffs It 7a ** D.Stainforth, R.Curley, 25.8.84 / D.Lyon 1990. 8. Cafe Libre 7c+ ** Chipped hold. Andy Pollitt, 2.7.86. | 9. La Boheme 7b *** Andy Pollitt,28.6.84. 10. La Boheme Direct 7b+ ** Same lower-off as La Boheme. P.Hawkins, 1990. 11. Libertango 7b+ ** Andy Pollitt / M.Atkinson, 15.6.84. 12. Mean Mother 7b *** S.Lewis / Mark Pretty, 21.6.84. 13. Face Race 7a+ *** S.Lewis / Mark Pretty, 16.6.84 14. Mad O'Rourke's Kipper House 6c+ * Dave Lyon, 1990. 15. New Moon on Monday E2 5c * Dave Lyon / Norman Clacher, 9.6.84. 16. Goodbye Mickey Mouse 6b * Eco bolt in the middle of the lower wall (2nd bolt?) moves and needs replacing. Dave Lyon / Chris Lyon, 30.10.83. |
Kaffe Fasset area
| 1. Mr. Stormalong 5+ * Norman Clacher, 12.12.90. 2. Khashoggis Ship 6b Norman Clacher, 12.12.90. 3. Bosch Bastards 6b * R.Rust, 1990. | 4. Kaffe Fasset 6b+ *** C.Tickell, 1990 Choss 6b Best left to rust away. Corroded bolts. This could be an ok route, if rebolted and scrubbed, going all the way to the top. Prob around 6c (PR). A.Burnell, 1990. |
Beauty is Only area
| 1. Skin Deep 6a+ * Gary Gibson, 23.9.94. 2. Beauty is Only 6a ** Gary Gibson / Matt Jones, 21.2.85. 3. Skin Game 6a+ ** Gary Gibson, 17.3.85. | 4. Golden Pond 5+ * Dave Lyon, 1995. 5. Dolphin Therapy 6a+ P.Hawkins, 1995. The obvious traverse line to the right of Dolphin Therapy leads in 100m. to a small zawn (5a). Exit easily up the near side of this zawn, or continue to the next zawn and exit up its far wall (5b). Norman Clacher / K.Simpson, 1982. Alternative finish: Norman Clacher / T. Hodgeson, 1982. |
Dutchman's Cave:
Zawn Creature E4 6a
Rider in the Chariot E4 6a
Orca E4 6b, 5c
Dutchmans Cave:Bolts in dangerous condition, hand drilled 8mm & 10mm some alloy hangers. Needs: Full
refit inc. 4 double bolt belays (not lower-offs) and up to 12 protection bolts.
refit inc. 4 double bolt belays (not lower-offs) and up to 12 protection bolts.
TMS Zawn:
Guilt-edged Security 6c Rockfax says good bolts but 1992? need to check out
Truly, Madly, Steeply 7b Need 4 new protection bolts + 2 new Belay bolts
Gateau Zawn:
1. Gateau Blaster 6a+ Needs 3 Protection bolts & 2 new belay bolts. Can be DWS.
All the following are deep water solos:
All the following are deep water solos:
2. African Headcharge 7a - The wall right of Gateau Blaster.
F.A: Tim Emmett ??
A group of us locals developed these DWS about 5 years ago so i'll name them. If anyone did them before, then scrap
this. Grades could be wrong. Pete Robins.
3. Into the Goo F6a+. Line right again, finishing left of hole.
4. Into the Poo F6a+. Same start but go right through hole.
5. Enter the Hole F5+. Traverse to corner and up through hole.
6. Jelly Fish Roof F7a. Continue traversing right onto right wall of zawn and pull out throught weakness in big low roof
and up wall. Very good.
7. Gateau Groove F6b. Continue onto far right wall and up steep groove.
8. Pepsi Max Traverse F6b. Decend down hole and traverse right to finish of 5.
F.A: Tim Emmett ??
A group of us locals developed these DWS about 5 years ago so i'll name them. If anyone did them before, then scrap
this. Grades could be wrong. Pete Robins.
3. Into the Goo F6a+. Line right again, finishing left of hole.
4. Into the Poo F6a+. Same start but go right through hole.
5. Enter the Hole F5+. Traverse to corner and up through hole.
6. Jelly Fish Roof F7a. Continue traversing right onto right wall of zawn and pull out throught weakness in big low roof
and up wall. Very good.
7. Gateau Groove F6b. Continue onto far right wall and up steep groove.
8. Pepsi Max Traverse F6b. Decend down hole and traverse right to finish of 5.
Make your mark on the interactive topo here
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| Started By | Thread Subject | Replies | Last Post | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| alexmason89 | Pas De Deux | 2 | Jul 1 2011, 6:47 AM EDT by chrisdoyle | ||
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Thread started: Jun 26 2011, 8:29 AM EDT
Watch
Does this route start up IBBBB or Meloncholie, If IBBBB has the link been done?
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| pete_robins | LPT grade changes | 3 | Aug 12 2009, 6:50 AM EDT by chrisdoyle | ||
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Thread started: Jun 23 2009, 8:12 AM EDT
Watch
Here is my list of possible grade changes, what do you think?
('?' means I'm less sure): The Refrain 7b Under the Boardwalk 6c Pas de Deux 8b Mussel Beach 7c+ ? Over the Moon Direct 7c+ ? Seaguls Dilema 8b+ Liquid Ambar 8c+ ? Wild Understatement 8a+ Wall of Voodoo 7b Cafe Libre 7c+ ? Kaffe Facet 6b+ |
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| petejh | Lower-off bolts! | 2 | May 16 2009, 11:54 AM EDT by BK1 | ||
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Thread started: May 11 2009, 6:28 PM EDT
Watch
I was re-equipping 'Pink Pinkie today, I managed to easily pull out by hand the single eco bolt lower-off. A couple of yanks with a claw hammer behind it was all it took, less than 1kN, scary. I 've seen people top roping and lowering off from this bolt. Careful what you're clipping out there.
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