Development of this new crag complex is now complete. There are 7 separate sectors offering slightly different styles of climbing which can be accessed via the public footpath at the top layby parking by the Gladedale apartment development which replaced the Hotel 70 Degrees above Old Colwyn. The routes are good quality in the main and in the range 4a - 7a+ with most routes around the 6a/6b level. After feed back (complaints actually!) 6 routes have had an extra bolt installed. Grades have also been modified in line with suggestions received. Please keep these coming.
The crag has been developed predominately by Michael Doyle and Norman Clacher and the total route tally is currently 58.

Some lower-off bolts are already showing signs of wear especially where they are shared by routes. Please use you own quick draws for lowering off as much as possible (last person threads) to minimise wear. Maillons / steel crabs are being fitted.

After a clean up by Clwyd Mountaineering Club the place is looking extremely clean and quite attractive. Please take your litter home and pick up any you see. Thanks. The routes are substantially solid. The “stuck-on" holds are actually quite sound, have had some heavy use and they also give some of the routes their character. A guide book will be produced in 2009 by Michael Doyle which will include Penmaen Head and also include all the "A55" sport crags such as The Gallery and recent developments at Castle Inn and Llanddulas Cave. Comments, suggestions and details of any new routes are welcomed and can be sent to

mjdoyle1@yahoo.com.

Recently someone has gone to the trouble of scratching grades at the bottom of each route. Please don't. It's unecessary, damages the rock, it looks messy and there is no need to do this as brief details of all the routes to get you off the ground can be found at:

.
http://clwydmc.co.uk/wiki/Penmaen-Head/