The Gallery from the beach with the upper crag top left. The Gallery is an under-used crag on the North Wales coast which deserves more exposure. It is currently (2009) undergoing a makeover from Colin Struthers and friends involving installation of many new lower-offs and some extra bolts. The original lower offs were double hangers and crabs. The extra investment in stainless steel by Colin and Sid Siddique has paid dividends and the bolts and hangers are in very good condition but the carabiners have had their day. The original hangers therefore are currently being replaced with hangers and rings and about 10 more routes need to be equipped in this way (10/09). Until this programme is complete climbers are advised to take some sacrificial crabs to use on the lower-offs if required. The gear has been paid for by Colin himself to date but a gear contibution from the North Wales bolt fund will be sought to complete the task. All contributions to the bolt fund are as always much appreciated. An attachment with updated concise route information as of 06/10/09 can be found at the bottom of this page. A topo can be found here: Gary Gibson's www.sportsclimbs.co.uk website. Look under Clwyd Limestone for The Gallery topos. Full details of The Gallery will feature in the forthcoming A55 crags sport climbing guide currently being prepared. Any feedback on grades / quality ratings etc. is appreciated and can be sent to: mjdoyle1@yahoo.com The rock is a type of Diorite quarried with slabby starts, sometimes powerful and technical finishes with pitches up to 30m in length. There are lots of lay-away moves and undercuts and the friction is excellent. Apparently fragile fins are solid! Be wary of some very sharp edges, many of which have been blunted deliberately but still take care with ropes. Take a 60m rope and 14 quick-draws for the longest routes. The crag consists of two main areas: 1. The main wall which is immediately above the footpath/cycle-way with sport routes of up to 30m. The crag faces north west and gets the sun from mid afternoon. 2. The upper crag, which has two brilliant routes of 30m and which is north-facing. Routes are graded for on-sight ascents with no prior knowledge.
Approaches: Heading from Llandudno on the A55, pass through the Penmaenbach Tunnel and after exiting turn left after 1/2 mile on Junction 16A (signposted Dwygyfylchi) and park just beyond the cattle grid. . From Bangor, come off the A55 at Penmaenmawr (junction 16) and immediately turn left for Dwgyfylchi. Follow this winding road for one mile and park just before the cattle grid. Cross over the dual carriageway and walk towards the tunnels on the cycle-way / footpath for 10 minutes to below the crag The upper crag is reached by crossing the east bound carriageway 100m after the Llandudno-bound tunnel exit and following the 2 retaining walls on the opposite side of the carriageway .
All of the routes were led and equipped by Colin Struthers and Nadim Siddiqui. with assistance from Jim Burton, Nick Colton and Kevin Stephens.

Typical climbing at the main Crag.



Iskra (6b+) on the uppper crag.


The impressive upper crag