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The Little Orme
A high water access route was established in 2009, using good bolts and in-situ rope (hand-lines). The handline was extended in 2011 to arrive at the Gemstone ramp and this gives access to The Diamond and the other seaward walls from 2hrs after high tide to 2hrs before high tide (the original handline accesses the beach down the obvious diagonal down-climb and gives access 3hrs after high tide). The extended handline gives about 8 hours climbing time and means it can also be realistic to go in on a rising tide and climb the routes from Never Get Out of The Boat leftwards (which are are all non-tidal) and then leave as the tide recedes.
Ocean of Emotion 7b+ *** on Detritus Wall is accessible by walking to below it on a spring low, this would be slightly 'adventurous'.
Atlanta Wall has had the ab point equipped with resin bolts. The routes have been climbed in 2011 and all the bolts are in good condition - stainless through bolts on Dave Lyon's routes and petzl long-life's on the left hand routes. The routes are very good quality in a superb location. Lots of afternoon sun.
Detritus Wall has had the ab point for Planet Suite, Uranus, Up Uranus and James equipped with resin bolts. Again the bolts on these routes are in good condition - stainless through bolts. I'm also in the process of equipping the traverse line out across the top of Detritus Wall to access Ocean of Emotion and 'E'. Up to 'E' so far (September 2011).
Check the link for Llandudno tide times (remember to add on 1 hour for BST): Tide Times.
New Routes/Re-equipping: Marine grade stainless resin bolts are the standard for routes on the sea-level walls
(stainless expansions are ok for the The Allotment, Meadow Walls, C-y-D Upper etc), contact NWBF for free bolts to re-equip routes (if they have sufficient), for new routes these can be purchased from the NWBF via the contacts on the home page of this site - northwalesboltfund@googlemail.com
The seaward walls:
The Diamond (topo) (Bird restriction Mar - Aug 15th)
West Buttress of Detritus (topo) (Bird restriction Mar - Aug 15th)
The Allotment (Bird restriction Mar - Aug 15th)
Meadow Walls
Detritus Wall (Bird restriction Mar - Aug 15th)
Atlanta Wall (Bird restriction Mar - Aug 15th)
Great Zawn (Bird restriction Mar - Aug 15th)
The landward crags:
Manor Crag
Craig-y-Don Upper (topo)
Bodafon Buttress
Access: for Craig-y-Don (Upper/Middle/Lower), The Diamond, West Buttress of Detritus and (spring low tide
only), Detritus Wall:
Hop over the gate opposite the 'Craigside Manor' pub and follow a path leftwards through the trees paralleling the road
until you reach a meadow. Carry on straight across the meadow towards a barbed wire fence, hop over this and cross
the next field to the cliff edge. Follow a beaten down path on the right through the undergrowth towards Craig-y-Don
Upper crag. Go down the grassy gully and then traverse rightwards along a faint path to a two bolt abseil station in the
small cliff band. A 30 metre in-situ abseil from here deposits you at the insitu handline. 10 minutes.
Two 'cowstails' are recommended for clipping into the handline and a gri-gri or similar self-locking device for each
member of the party is required to safely negotiate the vertical section and the ab rope on the way in/out. One person at a time per every other section of handrail is recommended to avoid over stressing the bolts from opposite directions. Stay below the handline to avoid shock loading it in the event of a slip. At certain points you must fully weight the line and it is less taxing on the arms if you fully weight it most of the way along. The down-climb at the original access point to the beach is easy but exposed and it does get greasy after the slightest rain - a fall here could be terminal, parties are advised to abseil from the last bolt if
they are unsure.
Any part of the handline could fail without warning with disastrous consequences and all parties use it at their own risk. If
you discover any damage to fixed ropes or bolts please let the locals know (drop an email to northwalesboltfund@google.com) or post it on this page.
Approach for Detritus Wall and Atlanta Wall: Park at the same place as for The Diamond. Walk up the slope to the right of craig y Don Upper and contour left around the hill. Once on the flat, contiue walking in the direction of the wind turbines out at sea until you reach the old brick lookout tower. There is an obvious left-to-right (looking out) sloping ramp below the lookout tower, walk down this and follow the path back leftwards to The Magic Flute cave. Atlanta Wall is an easy walk down the gentle slope to the abseil ledge at the bottom. Great Zawn is on your right.
A 30metre ab lands you at a foot ledge with a double thread - take your own sling. There's a large incut ledge to uncoil the rope onto.
Ocean of Emotion 7b+ *** on Detritus Wall is accessible by walking to below it on a spring low, this would be slightly 'adventurous'.
Atlanta Wall has had the ab point equipped with resin bolts. The routes have been climbed in 2011 and all the bolts are in good condition - stainless through bolts on Dave Lyon's routes and petzl long-life's on the left hand routes. The routes are very good quality in a superb location. Lots of afternoon sun.
Detritus Wall has had the ab point for Planet Suite, Uranus, Up Uranus and James equipped with resin bolts. Again the bolts on these routes are in good condition - stainless through bolts. I'm also in the process of equipping the traverse line out across the top of Detritus Wall to access Ocean of Emotion and 'E'. Up to 'E' so far (September 2011).
Check the link for Llandudno tide times (remember to add on 1 hour for BST): Tide Times.
New Routes/Re-equipping: Marine grade stainless resin bolts are the standard for routes on the sea-level walls
(stainless expansions are ok for the The Allotment, Meadow Walls, C-y-D Upper etc), contact NWBF for free bolts to re-equip routes (if they have sufficient), for new routes these can be purchased from the NWBF via the contacts on the home page of this site - northwalesboltfund@googlemail.com
Please Donate to The North Wales Bolt Fund
Overview of the seaward walls
(old topo showing original handline, the handline now extends further to the diagonal ramp of Gemstone)
The seaward walls:
The Diamond (topo) (Bird restriction Mar - Aug 15th)
West Buttress of Detritus (topo) (Bird restriction Mar - Aug 15th)
The Allotment (Bird restriction Mar - Aug 15th)
Meadow Walls
Detritus Wall (Bird restriction Mar - Aug 15th)
Atlanta Wall (Bird restriction Mar - Aug 15th)
Great Zawn (Bird restriction Mar - Aug 15th)
The landward crags:
Manor Crag
Craig-y-Don Upper (topo)
Bodafon Buttress
Access: for Craig-y-Don (Upper/Middle/Lower), The Diamond, West Buttress of Detritus and (spring low tide
only), Detritus Wall:
Hop over the gate opposite the 'Craigside Manor' pub and follow a path leftwards through the trees paralleling the road
until you reach a meadow. Carry on straight across the meadow towards a barbed wire fence, hop over this and cross
the next field to the cliff edge. Follow a beaten down path on the right through the undergrowth towards Craig-y-Don
Upper crag. Go down the grassy gully and then traverse rightwards along a faint path to a two bolt abseil station in the
small cliff band. A 30 metre in-situ abseil from here deposits you at the insitu handline. 10 minutes.
Two 'cowstails' are recommended for clipping into the handline and a gri-gri or similar self-locking device for each
member of the party is required to safely negotiate the vertical section and the ab rope on the way in/out. One person at a time per every other section of handrail is recommended to avoid over stressing the bolts from opposite directions. Stay below the handline to avoid shock loading it in the event of a slip. At certain points you must fully weight the line and it is less taxing on the arms if you fully weight it most of the way along. The down-climb at the original access point to the beach is easy but exposed and it does get greasy after the slightest rain - a fall here could be terminal, parties are advised to abseil from the last bolt if
they are unsure.
Any part of the handline could fail without warning with disastrous consequences and all parties use it at their own risk. If
you discover any damage to fixed ropes or bolts please let the locals know (drop an email to northwalesboltfund@google.com) or post it on this page.
Approach for Detritus Wall and Atlanta Wall: Park at the same place as for The Diamond. Walk up the slope to the right of craig y Don Upper and contour left around the hill. Once on the flat, contiue walking in the direction of the wind turbines out at sea until you reach the old brick lookout tower. There is an obvious left-to-right (looking out) sloping ramp below the lookout tower, walk down this and follow the path back leftwards to The Magic Flute cave. Atlanta Wall is an easy walk down the gentle slope to the abseil ledge at the bottom. Great Zawn is on your right.
A 30metre ab lands you at a foot ledge with a double thread - take your own sling. There's a large incut ledge to uncoil the rope onto.
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petejh |
Latest page update: made by petejh
, Sep 29 2011, 3:32 PM EDT
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| Started By | Thread Subject | Replies | Last Post | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| napalm_life | Bodafon Buttress | 1 | Aug 29 2008, 5:05 AM EDT by M.A.Couling | ||
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Thread started: Aug 16 2008, 1:13 PM EDT
Watch
Anybody know anything of the gredes on this awsome little crag. seen a route with a thread in place. also what grade might some of the bouldering go at?
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