North Wales Limestone - Recently Updated Pages

Penmaenbach Quarry

rockcat — Wed, 16 Dec 2009 15:12:09 CST

The lower quarry has a few very worthwhile routes and has received a complete makeover in the final quarter of 2009 (M. Doyle / M. Burrows ), with the replacement of rusty bolts, removal of turf and loose rock and the installation of lower-offs for the routes on the back wall . Stakes to belay with for the routes on the wings.

There are a few big routes in the upper quarry based on the large slab but some of them require a makeover and the replacement of rusty bolts and pegs.
Does anyone have any info on the first ascentionists or the route names? mjdoyle1@yahoo.com Thanks.

Approach
Come off the A55 at junction 17. Drive over the expressway and railway bridges and immediately turn right. Drive to a layby at the end of this road (a dead-end and the old A55). Cross over the stile into a quarry and turn right up a path. Continue on the path and make for the old winding house on the ridge. The lower quarry is on this level after a few more yards. For the upper quarry stay on the incline.

The Lower Quarry

L - R

1. 5+ The Left Slabby Wall. Stakes to belay / lower off. SS bolts.
2. 6c A poor route. Rusty bolts
3. 6b* New bolts and lower-offs installed.
4. 6a+** New bolts and lower-offs installed.
5. 7a ** The Open Book Groove. A couple of rusty bolts replaced and new lower-offs installed
6. 6a* New bolts and lower-offs installed.

The next 2 routes share a start and the same (new) bolts on the fine but small right hand slab. Stakes to lower-off.
7. 6a* The left hand line.
8. 6a+** The central line.

The Upper Quarry
The main slab L - R. :

1. The Birdman of Minffordd
SS bolts. Belay on trees.
F.A.: D. Lyon, C. Stevenson

2. The Gruffalo
SS bolts. One bolt to lower-off
F.A.: D. Lyon, C. Stevenson

3. Slab Tony Chamonix F7c+
The right hand route on the main slab. Rusty bolts.
F.A.: Neil Dyer. 2nd & 3rd Ascents: P.Robins, Will Perrin.

4. The Shouting Stage E5 6a ** 40ish m
Start to the right of STC and follow the line of weakness between the slab and the broken ground on the right past an old knife blade. Move up and left past old twin bolts, crux, to reach base of shallow bottomless corner, knife blade. Follow corner to top bulge which is taken slightly left past a peg to finish.
F.A.: Fraser Ball 1990ish
Wrongly named 'The Shooting Stage' in the guide. A very good route but very probably in need of a good clean up and regearing. The latter being done on a like for like basis with regard to the position of the fixed gear on the route but replacing the pegs with bolts thus keeping some of the original character of the route. These are the wishes expressed by Fraser. (J.R)

Old quarry above Llanfairfechan
The following route is to be found on the large wall under the old winding shed seen from the A55.

Room to roam E5 6a *
Start at the left of the wall and climb up and right to a cleaned groove. Climb this to a horizontal traverse at about half height. Follow rtis leftwards until hard moves up and slightly right gain the foot of the slanting groove is reached. Follow this boldly but with not to much difficulty to top out. Numerous pegs protect but the could be in a bad way. Same comments aply as for the shouting stage as regards replacement.
F.A Fraser Ball 1990ish

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Outlying Areas - Home

The Routes

chrisparkin — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 14:27:13 CST

Full descriptions should appear on the CC website this weekend (12/13th December), yours for a donation to the BMC Access Fund. Here's a list of routes so you can comment on what's worth doing, what's changed and grades etc, pitch lengths in metres would be helpful too.

The guide book is here CC website Forwyn guide download

From the 1987 CC guide

Left-Hand section (routes are described form right to left in the guide reflecting the OLD approach)

Un-named Route HVS 5a
Scum Bag HVS
Hooter HS
23 Skidoo E2
The Fox
Fading Colours E2

Routes above are on Mr Webb's Land see access notes and BMC access page

Moonwalk VS - Not sure who's land this is on?

Routes below are on Bob Jones's land
Coulombe VS
Chatterley HVS
Think Void E2
Extinction Crack VS
The Crunge E1 (could be E2, worth one star)
The Cringe E2
Vole VD
Whitewash VS
Sunny City E2 5c
Arian HS
The Direct Start VS
The Direct Finish VS
Dave's Wall
Ivy Line HS
Paul's Wall E1
Plas Newydd Groove VS
Hairline HVS
Spike Driver E2
Kiwi S
Kiwi Direct Start E1
The Last Grasp E2
Larks a Bumbly S
Un-named Route 4
Heart Attack HS
Un-named Route 3
Dyslexic's Delite VS
Hugh's Groove E3
Legal Seperation E2
Ann S
Golden Gate VD
Claustrophobia VD
Temptation VD
Krag Rat VS
Otto VD
Beeline HS
Beeline Direct HS
Naughty Bits S
Cling HS

The Main Cliff - Mr Webb's land
Human Menagerie E1
Swinger HVS
Knightsbridge VS - Probably HVS 5a, one star
Variation E2
Banana Moon E3 - Needs cleaning
Pterodactyl HVS - Cleaned. (Andy & Pete)
The Flue VS 4c * - Top of the grade for VS but loads of gear.
One Step Beyond E2 - Needs cleaning
Snotty Arete E2 - Needs cleaning
Zig Zag VD - Needs cleaning
Little Neb HVS 5b - Worth one star. Nails for HVS 5b!
L'Indienne E2 - Needs cleaning
Softly Softly S * - Nice steady route.
The Y Chimneys -
Left Hand Branch HVD - Needs cleaning
Right Hand Branch HVD - Needs cleaning
Yam HVS - Cleaned. Lots of loose rock removed on this route and Jungle Love. Take care, there's still likely to be some suspect holds.
Jungle Love E3 - Cleaned. Large shaky blocks under the top roof could do with crow barring out. Peg still in place.
Imminent Crisis E5 - Cleaned.
Cutter S - Needs cleaning
The Arete VS - Cleaned. The start still needs tidying.
Clap Trap E3 - Cleaned.
Fido's Redemption HVS 5a *** Brilliant! Good as a single 30m pitch.
Jugular Start HVS
High Steppa E5
Great Whaler E2
Freedom Direct Start E3
Freedom E2
Mojo E1 - Top pitch needs cleaning
The Direct Finish E2
Crazy Horses E3
Quickstep E4
Direct Finish E4
Space Case E6
Great Wall E4
Book of Dreams E4 - Needs cleaning
Magnum Opus E5 - Needs cleaning
High Plains Drifter E3 - Needs cleaning
Demolition VS - Needs cleaning
The Texas Shuffle E2 - Needs cleaning
The Direct Start E3 6a - Needs cleaning
Washington Waltz E2 - Needs cleaning
Twisting Chimney VS - Needs cleaning
The Norman Conquest HVS - Needs cleaning
The Neurotic Woodpecker VS - Needs cleaning
Street Stroller E1 - Needs cleaning
Scalar Arete E4 - Needs cleaning
Scalar VS - Needs cleaning
Moonwind E4 - Needs cleaning
The Maiden E3 - Needs cleaning
Hedera Wall E3 - Needs cleaning
Ivy Sepulchre VS - Cleaned- Top of the grade. First pitch needs a good brush. Several loose blocks pulled already and will improve with traffic
Titus HVS
Wackeroo E2 - Needs cleaning
Direct finish E1 - Needs cleaning
The Hurting E3 - Needs cleaning
Mad World E4 - Needs cleaning
Space Mountain E5 - Needs cleaning
Ash Groove VS - Needs cleaning
Sinister Chimney S - Needs cleaning
Savage the Cabage E1 - Needs cleaning
Eight Footed Excercise HVS - Needs cleaning
The Electric Butterfly VS - Needs cleaning
Glade Arete VS - Needs cleaning The short wall below the mid height ledge on this route is composed of large, loose blocks. I know it's vegetated but we thought it would make a good route for a rainy day. Anyway, be warned as it could go at any time copied form post by 'Pekkie' on UKC
The Fun House E4 - Needs cleaning

Here be a style which marks the right-hand side of the cliff, Mr. Jones's land, access OK

Purple Haze E3 - Needs cleaning
Gone with the Gonands E1 - Needs cleaning
Thatch S - Needs cleaning
Thatcher Traverse HVS - Needs cleaning
Stretch VS - Needs cleaning
The Space Race E4 - Needs cleaning
Burgess Wall E2 - Needs cleaning
Burgess Wall Right-Hand E4 - Needs cleaning
Man Alive Direct Start E3 - Needs cleaning
Panorama Direct Start E3 - Needs cleaning
Panorama E3 - Needs cleaning
Man Alive E1 - Needs cleaning
The Groan E3 - Needs cleaning
Square Cut Chimney HS - Needs cleaning
The Direct Finish HVS - Needs cleaning
Duchess HVS - Needs cleaning
Variation Start HVS - Needs cleaning
Sunset Strip HVS - Cleaned
The Direct Start HVS
Autobahn E3
Route 66 VS - Cleaned - Excellent route
Manhattan E5
Variation E4
Sangfroid HVS
Sangfroid Direct E2 - Cleaned
The Snake E2 - Needs cleaning
Variation E3 - Needs cleaning
The People Mover E5 - Needs cleaning
Stripper S - Needs cleaning
Sour Grapes E2 - Needs cleaning
Di's Delight E2 - Needs cleaning
Zonesthesia E1 - Needs cleaning
Topcat VS - Needs cleaning

Back to Craig y Forwyn intro

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Craig y Forwyn

chrisparkin — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 11:49:03 CST

BMC negotiate access to the left-hand side of Craig y Forwyn from a point (fence) 50m right of Staircase gully. Negotiations continue for the rest of the crag.

Keep an eye on the BMC's RAD data base for further access update

Access was originally lost due to parking issues and antisocial behaviour so it is essential that you follow the new parking advice. It is vital that you do not park on the verges off the Issalt Road – otherwise access will be lost again.

How to access Craig y Forwyn
Do not park on the verges or in front of houses onTrawscoed Road or anywhere onIssalt Road.The correct parking is located at a hairpin bend off Trawscoed Road, through the left hand gate into the field, park on the grass on the left-hand up-hill side (not on downside above slope to crag) OS Grid 902(5) 764(5) if it is too boggy it would be fine to park a couple of vehicles on the main track in the field,don't worryabout blocking the farmer's access as Bob Jones (the land owner) says he will be able to get around if required on his quad or 4 wheel-drive. He told the BMC Cymru Officer that heis very thankful that we (climbers) don't leave litter.

To get to this spot: drive along the Isallt Rd. below the escarpment, passing Plas Newydd Caravan Park. At 2 km beyond the caravan park, follow the road as it bends to the right to pass a Chapel on the right. At the following T-junction, turn right and proceed along Dolwen Rd. for approximately 200m until a sharp right turn along Trawscoed Rd. Pass along Trawscoed Rd. for approximately 900m (the last 100m are quite rough) until a sharp right hand hairpin with two gates on the left. Go through the metal gate and park on the grass above the farmers track/North Wales Footpath.

OR (better) drive as you would do to get to Castle Inn quarry but do not turn down the lane to Castle Inn. Instead carry on past the Semaphore Inn and the school. At a grassed area turn left onto Trawscoed road. Saves driving down the lane.

Accessing the crag from the agreed parking is easy and convenient - walk from down the inclined field and head for a stile in the right hand corner. This will take you directly into the left hand sections of the crag.

A map will soon be available on the BMC website.

View the Regional Access Database entry for Craig y Forwyn - for the first time ever with with a green "access OK" symbol!

Local climbers have been very busy clearing a path along the bottom of the crag and gardening some routes. Following some recent concerns please be sure to follow these guidelines:

Keep the noise down – it travels very easily in this valley

Go to the toilet before visiting the crag (or bury it at the very least please – the woodland around the crag is used for firewood collection by the land owners)

Only park at the designated location, the gate has been re-hung and at present the parking site is in good order though this will be monitored. To reduce the number of vehicles here, consider parking at Castle Inn quarry and sharing cars. It’s probably best not to park at the top of the lane (village green) so as not to antagonise locals.

The Crag is loose, proper trad, wear helmets. It is not suitable for large groups of novices or those with little or no trad experience.

CCW Section 28 consent for route restoration by the BMC

There is an official consent in place for the left hand end of the crag only from the CCW to carry out operations identified in a notice dated 10th Jan 2009 . It allows rock climbing for a year from 21st Jan 2009. It also relates to specified work at Craig-y-Forwyn for a trial period of one year from 21st Jan - 28th Feb 2009 and between 1st August 2009 - 21st Jan 2010. The entire document should be consulted as it gives full details of the conditions, a map and identifies with photos those plants that can and cannot be touched. See each of the links below.

For gardening advice please see terms of CCW consent on the above attachment.

Descent; there are some ab stations and Staircase gully or the left-hand end.

It is inappropriate at the present time to replace existing bolts because of the noise issue, . Fixed gear should be replaced like for like, but on a route by route basis there may be routes that don’t need fixed gear now. Please use tat in neutral colours.

There is no access from below the crag.

DOWN LOAD OLD GUIDE BOOK FROM CC website : http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/downloads/forwyn_lr.pdf

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The Little Orme

petejh — Sat, 14 Nov 2009 05:35:48 CST

The high water access route has been re-established using good bolts and in-situ rope (hand-lines) across the traverse,
this gives access to all the seaward walls up to Detritus Wall for 3 - 4 hours either side of low tide, depending on the
moon state (you get longest on a spring tide). Some routes on Detritus Wall are accessible on a spring low, this would be slightly 'adventurous'. Check the link for Llandudno tide times (remember to add on 1 hour for BST): Tide Times.
New Routes/Re-equipping: Marine grade stainless resin bolts are the standard for routes on the sea-level walls
(stainless expansions are ok for the The Allotment, Meadow Walls, C-y-D Upper etc), contact NWBF for free bolts to re-equip routes (if they have sufficient), for new routes these can be purchased from the NWBF via the contacts on the home page of this site - northwalesboltfund@googlemail.com

Please Donate to The North Wales Bolt Fund

To Donate:CLICK HERE!

Overview of the seaward walls

The seaward walls:

Craig-y-Don Lower & Middle

The Diamond (topo) (Bird restriction Mar - Aug 15th)
West Buttress of Detritus (topo) (Bird restriction Mar - Aug 15th)
The Allotment (Bird restriction Mar - Aug 15th)
Meadow Walls
Detritus Wall (Bird restriction Mar - Aug 15th)
Atlanta Wall (Bird restriction Mar - Aug 15th)
Great Zawn (Bird restriction Mar - Aug 15th)

The landward crags:
Manor Crag
Craig-y-Don Upper (topo)
Bodafon Buttress

Access: for Craig-y-Don (Upper/Middle/Lower), The Diamond, West Buttress of Detritus and (spring low tide
only), Detritus Wall:

Hop over the gate opposite the 'Craigside Manor' pub and follow a path leftwards through the trees paralleling the road
until you reach a meadow. Carry on straight across the meadow towards a barbed wire fence, hop over this and cross
the next field to the cliff edge. Follow a beaten down path on the right through the undergrowth towards Craig-y-Don
Upper crag. Go down the grassy gully and then traverse rightwards along a faint path to a two bolt abseil station in the
small cliff band. A 30metre abseil from here deposits you at the insitu ropes. 10 minutes.
Make sure you tie off your ab rope to the bolts at the start of the insitu ropes, this is your only means of getting out without
wading/swimming.
Two 'cowstails' are recommended for clipping into the handline and a gri-gri or similar self-locking device for every
member of the party is required to safely negotiate the vertical section and the ab rope on the way in/out. One person at a time per every other section of handrail is recommended. Stay below the handrail to avoid shock loading it in the event of a slip. At certain points you must fully weight the line. The down-climb at the end is easy but exposed and it does get
extremely greasy after the slightest rain and a fall here could be terminal, parties are advised to abseil from the last bolt if
they are unsure.
Any part of the handrail could fail without warning with disastrous consequences and all parties use it at their own risk. If
you discover any damage to fixed ropes or bolts please let the locals know (drop an email to northwalesboltfund@google.com) and post it on this page.

Approach for Manor Crag, The Allotment, Meadow Walls, Detritus Wall and Atlanta Wall: Check the individual crag
pages for approach descriptions (not added yet).

Please Donate to The North Wales Bolt Fund

To Donate:CLICK HERE!

Home

petejh — Sat, 14 Nov 2009 05:32:40 CST

Welcome to the North Wales Limestone Wiki.

The aim of this site is for us to keep each other informed and up to date on the condition of routes across the North Wales Limestone area. This will principally revolve around which routes have safe bolts, which don't and an update when routes have been re-bolted. Please consider visiting and contributing to these other wiki's too: Slate, Gogarth, Tremadog and Welsh Winter Climbs. You can use the same user name and password. Get typing!

Please Donate to The North Wales Bolt Fund

To Donate:CLICK HERE!

The fund relies on donations from the climbing community and companies associated with climbing. Bolts cost money and stainless ones even more! Drills, resin and static ropes all eat away at the donations so it needs constantly topping up. Donations can be made by Credit Card, Debit Card or Paypal by clicking on the 'Donate' link above. Donations can also be sent to: NWBF, Llysfaen, Lon Brynteg, Glyn Garth, Menai Brridge, LL59 5NU, or dropped off at the following climbing shops: V12 - Llanberis, Joe Browns - Llanberis & Capel Curig, Great Arete - Bangor, The Beacon Climbing Wall, and The Indi Climbing Wall. Thank you for supporting climbing in North Wales! NWBF is actively involved in the re-equipping of bolts on these crags as it is on other bolted areas in North Wales including the Clwyd Area and the Llanberis Slate Quarries. Volunteers who value the superb climbing available in these areas and the need for safe bolts carry out all installations but would rather be climbing, so help out if you can. If you spot a poor bolt (or other fixed equipment) let the NWBF know via northwalesboltfund@googlemail.com or the discussion forums on this site or by emailing one of the key contacts: North Wales Coast: Chris Doyle - crimpmaster28@hotmail.com Clywd Limestone: Lee Proctor - leeproctor@phoenixchem.com Slate: Simon Panton - simonpanton@northwalesbouldering.com General: Chris Parkin - chrisparkinguide@gmail.com.

BMC Better Bolts The Orme:This link includes important information on keeping everyone up to date on routes equipped with bolts from this source.

To Donate:CLICK HERE!

The Climbing

The Great Orme

The Little Orme

Outlying Areas

Clwyd Rebolting

Llanymynach

Craig y Forwyn

Routes in this type face are currently banned due to rock instability.

Weather: This webcam shows the weather at Llandudno Junction. It could of course be much better on the Orme itself, but it'll give you some idea.
And here's the metcheck page for Llandudno.

The Great Orme

petejh — Mon, 09 Nov 2009 11:17:23 CST

To Donate:CLICK HERE!

Marine Drive season tickets - £15 per annum. Good value especially for couples/multi vehicle owners and obsessed boulderers.

You cannot buy a season pass at the gate but if you ask gate man he will give you a form. Complete it with up to three registrations. Then you take/post it to: Highways & Infrastructure, York Road (off Gloddaeth Street), Llandudno, LL30 2EF. Office hours for callers: 8.45am and 5.15pm Monday to Thursday and 8.45am to 4.45 pm on Friday.
Do not reverse off Marine Drive: For anybody who climbs at the Great Orme and drives though the toll gate on the Marine Drive: A warning was given this afternoon (10.07.07) for all climbers who reverse or drive back through the toll gate after climbing to stop this habit immediately. The council have been informed by the resident in the gate house that specifically climbers have been doing this and the council isn't happy. The toll gate man is pissed off with it as he gets it in the neck from his council boss. So basically SPREAD THE WORD; DO NOT go back through the toll gate. DRIVE AROUND the marine drive after climbing. ACCESS for climbing on the Orme could be denied in the future if we (most of us have done it) ignore this warning.

To Donate:CLICK HERE!

Llandudno Crags
Pen Trwyn
Lower Pen Trwyn (topo) - Re-equipping completed.To Donate:CLICK HERE! See this page for new phototopo and updated approach description.
Pigeons Cave
Hamburger Buttress
Crinkle Crags
Wonderwall
Craig Arwahan
Un-named Crag
Castell Y Gwynt
Pont Five Buttress and Upper Craig Pen Gogarth

Seal Point and Craig Pen Gogarth
St Tudno's
Observatory Buttress
Central Buttress

To Donate:CLICK HERE!

Craig-y-Don Upper

petejh — Mon, 09 Nov 2009 07:44:25 CST

Approach: as for The Diamond etc. (see Little Orme home page).

1. Riptide 7b ** D.Lyon, P.Freeman, N.Jowett, 1987. 2. Changeling VS 4c P.Boardman, O.Knowles, 3.10.73. Changeling Direct: R.Edwards, I.Pomfrett, 14.3.74 3. The Cruel Sea E3 6a ** C.Lyon, M.Hammill, 28.6.85 4. Hydraulic Transmission E5 6b *** M.Hammill, M.Raven, 26.6.85 5. Hydro E1 5b ******* R.Edwards, M.Creasy, 3.10.73 6. Frozen Moment / New Wave E4 6a Frozen Moment: M.Hammill, C.Lyon, C.Bundock, 7.7.85 New Wave: M.Hammill, C.Lyon, 27.6.85 7. Nimitz E5 6b M.Hammill, C.Lyon, 3.7.85	8. Dough'Nutz E5 6b * Upper peg missing so may be 'harder'. D.Towse, G.Smith, 16.7.85 9. Donner Und Blitzen 7c M.Griffiths, 1995. 10. Doenitz Direct E6 6c ** T.Jones, 24.2.86 11. Doenitz E5 6b *** K.Howitt, D.Towse, 2.6.82 12. Summon the Chee 7b * M.Griffiths, 1995. 13. The Tyndale 6c+ * M.Griffiths, 1995. 14. Hydrofoil HVS 5a R.Shepton, A.Dutton, 28.6.74

1. Riptide 7b **
D.Lyon, P.Freeman, N.Jowett, 1987.

2. Changeling VS 4c
P.Boardman, O.Knowles, 3.10.73.
Changeling Direct: R.Edwards, I.Pomfrett, 14.3.74

3. The Cruel Sea E3 6a **
C.Lyon, M.Hammill, 28.6.85

4. Hydraulic Transmission E5 6b ***
M.Hammill, M.Raven, 26.6.85

5. Hydro E1 5b ***
R.Edwards, M.Creasy, 3.10.73

6. Frozen Moment / New Wave E4 6a **
Frozen Moment: M.Hammill, C.Lyon, C.Bundock, 7.7.85
New Wave: M.Hammill, C.Lyon, 27.6.85

7. Nimitz E5 6b **
M.Hammill, C.Lyon, 3.7.85

8. Dough'Nutz E5 6b *
Upper peg missing so may be 'harder'.
D.Towse, G.Smith, 16.7.85

9. Donner Und Blitzen 7c
M.Griffiths, 1995.

10. Doenitz Direct E6 6c **
T.Jones, 24.2.86

11. Doenitz E5 6b ***
K.Howitt, D.Towse, 2.6.82

12. Summon the Chee 7b *
M.Griffiths, 1995.

13. The Tyndale 6c+ *
M.Griffiths, 1995.

14. Hydrofoil HVS 5a
R.Shepton, A.Dutton, 28.6.74

Little Orme Home

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Lower Pen Trwyn

petejh — Mon, 09 Nov 2009 07:38:22 CST

Seeing as the '97 Rockfax is now out of print and North Wales Rock contains only a limited route
selection for the Ormes, it seemed like a good idea to produce a topo for those who don't own a copy
of the Rockfax.

Approach
Carefully hop over the wall opposite Parisella's Cave and descend the steep gully. The traditionally used descent gully is
showing increased signs of wear and further stabilization will be difficult due to the erosion being down to the bed rock
and the desire not to attract ordinary tourists into the area. An alternative descent has been suggested and it would be
good for climbers to experiment with this and give feedback on this website through the comments facility. Suggested
alternative approach: Just beyond the toll house, where the road narrows at another gate, cross the wall and
head directly down a grassy spur which leads to a short easy rock scramble and the beach.

General.
Following re-bolting work every route has had its lower-off checked and where necessary a new lower-off fitted, in
addition, the most popular routes have had lower-off rings fitted to eliminate wear on the bolts.PLEASE THREAD THE RINGS! Nearly every route now has resin protection bolts; on those which don't (She's a beach, Life's a Beach, the top of Fair Sized Fish, Golden Pond), the stainless expansion bolts appear to be in good condition i.e. light rust staining only as of Summer '09. Any decisions made about the safety of bolts are your own.

Tides
Plan for approx 3 - 4 hours climbing time either side of low tide depending on moon state (you get longest on a
spring tide). Check here for Llandudno tide times (add 1 hour for BST): Tide Times

Boardwalk area.

1. Nameless 6c+ Shares lower-off with That's Where I'll Be. Tony Schelmadine, 1996. 2. That's Where I'll Be 7a Eco bolts lower-off. Dave Lyon, 1988. 3. The Refrain 7b ** Dave Lyon, 1988. 4. Under the Boardwalk 6c ******* M. Atkinson, Andy Pollitt, 28.8.1984. 5. On a Blanket with my Baby E3 5c, 5b Single bolt lower-off. Dave Lyon, P. Freeman, 1988.	6. She's a Beach 7a * Shares lower-off with Under the Boardwalk. Fifth bolt is in a hollow area of rock, no solid alternatives exist. Dave Lyon, 1995. 7. Down by the Sea 7a+ * ( 'ard for 7a+! JR) Dave Lyon, 1987. 8. Life's a Beach 7b * Dave Lyon, 1990. 9. The Angel Project 8b/8b+? Open Project.

1. Nameless 6c+

Shares lower-off with That's Where I'll Be.
Tony Schelmadine, 1996.

2. That's Where I'll Be 7a

Eco bolts lower-off.
Dave Lyon, 1988.

3. The Refrain 7b **

Dave Lyon, 1988.

4. Under the Boardwalk 6c ***

M. Atkinson, Andy Pollitt, 28.8.1984.

5. On a Blanket with my Baby E3 5c, 5b

Single bolt lower-off.
Dave Lyon, P. Freeman, 1988.

6. She's a Beach 7a *
Shares lower-off with Under the Boardwalk. Fifth bolt is in a hollow area of rock, no solid alternatives exist.
Dave Lyon, 1995.

7. Down by the Sea 7a+ *
( 'ard for 7a+! JR)
Dave Lyon, 1987.

8. Life's a Beach 7b *
Dave Lyon, 1990.

9. The Angel Project 8b/8b+?
Open Project.

Liquid Ambar area

1. Melancholie 8b ** Adam Wainwright, August, 1992. 2. I've Been a Bad, Bad Boy 7c/7c+ ******* Mark Pretty, 19.8.1988. 3. Pas de Deux 8b * Neil Carson, July, 1995. 4. Mussel Beach 8a ******* Mark Pretty, 9.7.1988. 5. Parasite 8a ** George Smith, 1990. 5a. Battle of the Parasites 7c+ * Chris Doyle, 22.8.2009 6. Battle of the Little Big Orme 8a ******* Chris Plant, 1990.	7. Over the Moon Direct 8a ** Andy Hoffman, 1994. 7a. Moonwalk 8a+ ******* Tommy Chamings, 22.8.2009 8. Over the Moon 8a ******* Andy Pollitt, 30.6.1988. 9. The Walking Muscle 8b+ ** Neil Carson, June, 1995. 10. Seagull's Dilemma 8b+ Ben Moon, 1993. 11. Sea of Tranquility 8c+ ** Ben Moon, 1993. 12. Liquid Ambar 8c+ ******* Jerry Moffatt, June, 1990.

1. Melancholie 8b **
Adam Wainwright, August, 1992.

2. I've Been a Bad, Bad Boy 7c/7c+ ***
Mark Pretty, 19.8.1988.

3. Pas de Deux 8b *
Neil Carson, July, 1995.

4. Mussel Beach 8a ***
Mark Pretty, 9.7.1988.

5. Parasite 8a **
George Smith, 1990.

5a. Battle of the Parasites 7c+ *
Chris Doyle, 22.8.2009

6. Battle of the Little Big Orme 8a ***
Chris Plant, 1990.

7. Over the Moon Direct 8a **
Andy Hoffman, 1994.

7a. Moonwalk 8a+ ***
Tommy Chamings, 22.8.2009

8. Over the Moon 8a ***
Andy Pollitt, 30.6.1988.

9. The Walking Muscle 8b+ **
Neil Carson, June, 1995.

10. Seagull's Dilemma 8b+

Ben Moon, 1993.

11. Sea of Tranquility 8c+ **

Ben Moon, 1993.

12. Liquid Ambar 8c+ ***
Jerry Moffatt, June, 1990.

Statement area

1.The Big Bang 9a *** Neil Carson, 1996. 2. Infanticide 8c ** Neil Carson, 1995. 3. Wild Understatement 8a+ ** George Smith, September, 1989. 4. Youthanasia 8b ** Steve Meyers, July, 1991. 5. Statement of Youth 8a ******* Ben Moon, 25.6.1984.	6. Rompsville 7c ** Steve Lewis, 19.9.1984. 7. A Fair Sized Fish 7c+ ** George Smith, 1989. 8. Night Glue 7a+ ******* (First bolt moves) Andy Pollitt, 21.9.1984. 9. Martha 7c ** Shares lower-off with Night Glue. P.Freeman, 10.7.1991. 10. Wall of Voodoo 7b * Andy Pollitt. 4.10.1984.

1.The Big Bang 9a ***
Neil Carson, 1996.

2. Infanticide 8c **
Neil Carson, 1995.

3. Wild Understatement 8a+ **
George Smith, September, 1989.

4. Youthanasia 8b **
Steve Meyers, July, 1991.

5. Statement of Youth 8a ***
Ben Moon, 25.6.1984.

6. Rompsville 7c **
Steve Lewis, 19.9.1984.

7. A Fair Sized Fish 7c+ **
George Smith, 1989.

8. Night Glue 7a+ ***
(First bolt moves)
Andy Pollitt, 21.9.1984.

9. Martha 7c **
Shares lower-off with Night Glue.
P.Freeman, 10.7.1991.

10. Wall of Voodoo 7b *
Andy Pollitt. 4.10.1984.

Face Race area

1. Jacuzzi Jive E4 6a Dave Lyon, Chris Lyon, 21.7.83 2. Twisting by the Pool E4 6a Dave Lyon, Chris Lyon, 3.7.83 3. Tokoloshe Man E2 5c P.Williams, I.Sayers, 22.10.83 4. Voodoo Child 7a * A.Pollitt, P.Williams, M.Atkinson, 2.10.84 5. Passengers 6a+ D.Lyon, C.Stephenson, 1996. 6. The Cynical Pinnacle XS 5a P.Williams, I.Sayers, 11.10.83 7. The Pink Pinkie Snuffs It 7a ** D.Stainforth, R.Curley, 25.8.84 / D.Lyon 1990. 8. Cafe Libre 7c+ ** Chipped hold. Andy Pollitt, 2.7.86.	9. La Boheme 7b ***** Andy Pollitt,28.6.84. 10. La Boheme Direct 7b+ Same lower-off as La Boheme. P.Hawkins, 1990. 11. Libertango 7b+ Andy Pollitt / M.Atkinson, 15.6.84. 12. Mean Mother 7b *** S.Lewis / Mark Pretty, 21.6.84. 13. Face Race 7a+ *** S.Lewis / Mark Pretty, 16.6.84 14. Mad O'Rourke's Kipper House** 6c+ * Dave Lyon, 1990. 15. New Moon on Monday E2 5c * Dave Lyon / Norman Clacher, 9.6.84. 16. Goodbye Mickey Mouse 6b * Eco bolt in the middle of the lower wall (2nd bolt?) moves and needs replacing. Dave Lyon / Chris Lyon, 30.10.83.

1. Jacuzzi Jive E4 6a **
Dave Lyon, Chris Lyon, 21.7.83

2. Twisting by the Pool E4 6a **
Dave Lyon, Chris Lyon, 3.7.83

3. Tokoloshe Man E2 5c
P.Williams, I.Sayers, 22.10.83

4. Voodoo Child 7a *
A.Pollitt, P.Williams, M.Atkinson, 2.10.84

5. Passengers 6a+
D.Lyon, C.Stephenson, 1996.

6. The Cynical Pinnacle XS 5a
P.Williams, I.Sayers, 11.10.83

7. The Pink Pinkie Snuffs It 7a **
D.Stainforth, R.Curley, 25.8.84 / D.Lyon 1990.

8. Cafe Libre 7c+ **
Chipped hold.
Andy Pollitt, 2.7.86.

9. La Boheme 7b ***
Andy Pollitt,28.6.84.

10. La Boheme Direct 7b+ **
Same lower-off as La Boheme.
P.Hawkins, 1990.

11. Libertango 7b+ **
Andy Pollitt / M.Atkinson, 15.6.84.

12. Mean Mother 7b ***
S.Lewis / Mark Pretty, 21.6.84.

13. Face Race 7a+ ***
S.Lewis / Mark Pretty, 16.6.84

14. Mad O'Rourke's Kipper House 6c+ *
Dave Lyon, 1990.

15. New Moon on Monday E2 5c *
Dave Lyon / Norman Clacher, 9.6.84.

16. Goodbye Mickey Mouse 6b *
Eco bolt in the middle of the lower wall (2nd bolt?) moves and needs replacing.
Dave Lyon / Chris Lyon, 30.10.83.

Kaffe Fasset area

1. Mr. Stormalong 5+ * Norman Clacher, 12.12.90. 2. Khashoggis Ship 6b Norman Clacher, 12.12.90. 3. Bosch Bastards 6b * R.Rust, 1990.	4. Kaffe Fasset 6b+ ***** C.Tickell, 1990 Choss** 6b Best left to rust away. Corroded bolts. A.Burnell, 1990.

1. Mr. Stormalong 5+ *
Norman Clacher, 12.12.90.

2. Khashoggis Ship 6b
Norman Clacher, 12.12.90.

3. Bosch Bastards 6b *
R.Rust, 1990.

4. Kaffe Fasset 6b+ ***
C.Tickell, 1990

Choss 6b
Best left to rust away. Corroded bolts.
A.Burnell, 1990.

Beauty is Only area

1. Skin Deep 6a+ * Gary Gibson, 23.9.94. 2. Beauty is Only 6a Gary Gibson / Matt Jones, 21.2.85. 3. Skin Game 6a+ Gary Gibson, 17.3.85.	4. Golden Pond 5+ * Dave Lyon, 1995. 5. Dolphin Therapy 6a+ P.Hawkins, 1995. The Water Margin HVS 5a, 5b * The obvious traverse line to the right of Dolphin Therapy leads in 100m. to a small zawn (5a). Exit easily up the near side of this zawn, or continue to the next zawn and exit up its far wall (5b). Norman Clacher / K.Simpson, 1982. Alternative finish: Norman Clacher / T. Hodgeson, 1982.

1. Skin Deep 6a+ *
Gary Gibson, 23.9.94.

2. Beauty is Only 6a **
Gary Gibson / Matt Jones, 21.2.85.

3. Skin Game 6a+ **
Gary Gibson, 17.3.85.

4. Golden Pond 5+ *
Dave Lyon, 1995.

5. Dolphin Therapy 6a+
P.Hawkins, 1995.

The Water Margin HVS 5a, 5b *
The obvious traverse line to the right of Dolphin Therapy leads in 100m. to a small zawn (5a). Exit easily up the near side of this zawn, or continue to the next zawn and exit up its far wall (5b).
Norman Clacher / K.Simpson, 1982.
Alternative finish: Norman Clacher / T. Hodgeson, 1982.

Dutchman's Cave:

Zawn Creature E4 6a

Rider in the Chariot E4 6a

Orca E4 6b, 5c

Dutchmans Cave:Bolts in dangerous condition, hand drilled 8mm & 10mm some alloy hangers. Needs: Full
refit inc. 4 double bolt belays (not lower-offs) and up to 12 protection bolts.

TMS Zawn:

Guilt-edged Security 6c Rockfax says good bolts but 1992? need to check out

Truly, Madly, Steeply 7b Need 4 new protection bolts + 2 new Belay bolts

Gateau Zawn:

1. Gateau Blaster 6a+ Needs 3 Protection bolts & 2 new belay bolts. Can be DWS.
All the following are deep water solos:

2. African Headcharge 7a - The wall right of Gateau Blaster.
F.A: Tim Emmett ??
A group of us locals developed these DWS about 5 years ago so i'll name them. If anyone did them before, then scrap
this. Grades could be wrong. Pete Robins.
3. Into the Goo F6a+. Line right again, finishing left of hole.
4. Into the Poo F6a+. Same start but go right through hole.
5. Enter the Hole F5+. Traverse to corner and up through hole.
6. Jelly Fish Roof F7a. Continue traversing right onto right wall of zawn and pull out throught weakness in big low roof
and up wall. Very good.
7. Gateau Groove F6b. Continue onto far right wall and up steep groove.
8. Pepsi Max Traverse F6b. Decend down hole and traverse right to finish of 5.

Make your mark on the interactive topo here

Home

The Diamond

petejh — Mon, 09 Nov 2009 07:04:47 CST

Please respect any projects down here even the 'old' projects labeled in the guide if they have any new bolts on them or are tagged with someone's name below as a lot of hard work has gone into sorting these out, there are still loads of others if you're keen! To Donate:CLICK HERE!

Diamond Right

The bolts on the routes noted as 'needs re-equipping' may be in a dangerous state - 2 old bolts on 'Tommy's
Project'snapped under body weight (Sept '09). Also beware of seabird-generated rockfall on the lefthand side
of The Diamond. To Donate:CLICK HERE!

1. Hysteria 7b ** Re-equipped, might need one more at start. CD M.Ryan, 8.8.91 2. Gemstone E2 5c *** 155 metres to the top of the Orme. R.Edwards, M.Creasy, 23.10.73 3. Specular Reflections 8a ***** 8 eco bolts. S.Mayers, Sept 1991. 4. The Sting 7c+ ***** Needs re-equipping. S.Mayers, Sept 1991.	5. Wall of Evening Light 7b+ ***** 50m. Needs re-equipping. R.Edwards, F.Harvey, 2.4.72 FFA of pitches 1 & 2: A.Pollitt, M.Pretty, 7.7.88 6. The Shining 8a *** 50m.** Needs re-equipping. S.Mayers, Sept 1991 Rhinestone Cowboy 7b ? Quote from one of the First Ascentionists: "Rhinestone Cowboy was put up by Louise and myself. It's a 7 pitch route. Walk into the Diamond and walk off the top (pub very close!). Start just right of the base of Gemstone ramp. P1 Climb 7b+ up to a ledge. P2 Traverse left. A short wet pitch. P3,P4 Two great sport pitces follow. 7A,6C P5 Then brilliant crack pitch leads to a fossilized Cormorant. P6 Take the cabbage groove above to a belay. P7 Scramble pitch off to top. All belays equipped. p.s. carry trainers and some beer money " T.Turner, L.Turner, 2003.

1. Hysteria 7b **
Re-equipped, might need one more at start. CD
M.Ryan, 8.8.91

2. Gemstone E2 5c ***
155 metres to the top of the Orme.
R.Edwards, M.Creasy, 23.10.73

3. Specular Reflections 8a ***
8 eco bolts.
S.Mayers, Sept 1991.

4. The Sting 7c+ ***
Needs re-equipping.
S.Mayers, Sept 1991.

5. Wall of Evening Light 7b+ ***
50m. Needs re-equipping.
R.Edwards, F.Harvey, 2.4.72
FFA of pitches 1 & 2: A.Pollitt, M.Pretty, 7.7.88

6. The Shining 8a ***
50m. Needs re-equipping.
S.Mayers, Sept 1991

Rhinestone Cowboy 7b ?
Quote from one of the First Ascentionists: "Rhinestone Cowboy was
put up by Louise and myself. It's a 7 pitch route. Walk into the Diamond
and walk off the top (pub very close!). Start just right of the base of
Gemstone ramp.
P1 Climb 7b+ up to a ledge.
P2 Traverse left. A short wet pitch.
P3,P4 Two great sport pitces follow. 7A,6C
P5 Then brilliant crack pitch leads to a fossilized Cormorant.
P6 Take the cabbage groove above to a belay.
P7 Scramble pitch off to top.
All belays equipped.
p.s. carry trainers and some beer money "
T.Turner, L.Turner, 2003.

Diamond Left

To Boat or Not to Be 7b Somewhere on the rubble bounding the left side of The Diamond. M.Pretty, P.Freeman, 15.7.88. 1. The Water Buoys E5 6a ** Needs re-equipping. M.Pretty, P.Freeman, 15.7.88. 2. Calimero 7a ** Needs re-equipping. G.Hughes, 11.8.88. 3. It Came From Beneath the Sea 7a+ ** Needs re-equipping. M.Pretty, 29.7.88. 4. Rub a Dub Dub 7a ******* Re-equipped with new resin bolts. G.Hughes, 17.8.88. 5. Non-Tidal Screamer 7c ******* Needs re-equipping. G.Smith, 8.8.88.	6. Robinson Cruiser 7c+ ******* Needs re-equipping (lower-off has been done). G.Smith, Aug 1988. 7. A Skip of Fools 8a+ ******* New resin bolts (There's also an open project branching off left.) G.Smith, Sept 1991. 8. Boat People 7c ******* Possibly worth 7c+ to the top (PR). Re-equipped with new resin bolts. P.Pritchard, 17.8.89. 9. Never Get Out of the Boat 8a ******* Re-equipped with new resin bolts.The continuation above the lower-off is an Open Project. G.Smith, Oct 1990. Open Project The right-facing rampline, starting just right of a small cave. Open Project Nails-looking line with one eco in the start, F9 something?

To Boat or Not to Be 7b
Somewhere on the rubble bounding the left side of The Diamond.
M.Pretty, P.Freeman, 15.7.88.

1. The Water Buoys E5 6a **
Needs re-equipping.
M.Pretty, P.Freeman, 15.7.88.

2. Calimero 7a **
Needs re-equipping.
G.Hughes, 11.8.88.

3. It Came From Beneath the Sea 7a+ **
Needs re-equipping.
M.Pretty, 29.7.88.

4. Rub a Dub Dub 7a ***
Re-equipped with new resin bolts.
G.Hughes, 17.8.88.

5. Non-Tidal Screamer 7c ***
Needs re-equipping.
G.Smith, 8.8.88.

6. Robinson Cruiser 7c+ ***
Needs re-equipping (lower-off has been done).
G.Smith, Aug 1988.

7. A Skip of Fools 8a+ ***
New resin bolts (There's also an open project branching off left.)
G.Smith, Sept 1991.

8. Boat People 7c ***
Possibly worth 7c+ to the top (PR). Re-equipped with new resin bolts.
P.Pritchard, 17.8.89.

9. Never Get Out of the Boat 8a ***
Re-equipped with new resin bolts.The continuation above the lower-off is an Open Project.
G.Smith, Oct 1990.

Open Project
The right-facing rampline, starting just right of a small cave.

Open Project
Nails-looking line with one eco in the start, F9 something?

Home

Little Orme - Home

Llandulas Cave

rockcat — Sat, 07 Nov 2009 11:53:13 CST

Llanddulas Cave has been subject to a lot of development and refurbishment in 2008/09 involving new routes and re-bolting of routes that have had their hangers removed and hence had not been climbed for many years. Some lower-off positions have been improved. It will feature in the forthcoming A55 Sport Climbing Crags guide currently being prepared. All feedback is appreciated on Grades / Stars or anything else and can be sent to: mjdoyle1@yahoo.com

The Upper Cave Area

1. Karmic Wind F6a+* 18m.
Cleaned and Re-bolted: M. Burrows. 2008
F.A.: P. Hawkins 1995

2. Mind Light F6a+* 18m New.
F.A.: M. Burrows 2008

3. Spider Mite F6b* 18m New (could do with a couple more bolts, Lee) (it now has them, Mike)
F.A.: T. Shelmerdine 2008

4. Llanddulas Ditchwater F6c Petzl hangers, not verified, no lower off. Finish on top, bolt belay.
F.A.: C. Struthers, S. Siddique

5. Early Bird E3 5c. Loose.

6. Main Overhang A2. Rotting gear.

7. Guano On Sight E2 5c *.

8. The Wirral Whip F7c+ * New hangers installed and new belay added (Lee)
F.A.: M. Collins 11.86

9. Mudjekeewis F7c ** Hangers (7b+? JR)
F.A.: P. Hawkins 1995

10. Pearl from the Shell F6c+** New resin bolts Oct. 2007. Twin Bolt lower-off.
F.A.: T. Hodgeson, S. Chesslet 27.6.84

11. Sticky Fingers F7b+*. New resin bolts Oct 2007. Twin bolt lower-off. Shares lower-off with Pearl. F.A.: T. Shelmerdine 1996 (grade about right, pete)

12. Searching F6c+ * New resin bolts Oct 2007. Twin Bolt lower-off. Badly positioned bolts, although last bolt on El Tigre can be clipped with a long draw for the moves to the belay. Now with an extra bolt (9/9/9)
F.A.: T. Hodgeson, S. Chesslet, P. Custy 27.6.84

13. El Tigre F7b * Technical.
F.A.: P. Hawkins 1998. This newly bolted version: T. Chamings. T. Shelmerdine. 2008

14. PC Wimpout F6a+* Cleaned and re-equipped. T. Shelmerdine, N. Clacher, M. Burrows 07/08
F.A. at E2 5c: T. Hodgeson, S. Chesslet, P. Custy 27.6.84.

The next 3 routes start below the cave ledge.

15. Grog and the Donkey F6b+.** (5B) New.
F.A.: T. Shelmerdine, N. Clacher 09/08

16. Afterglow F6a+ * (5B)
Cleaned and retro-bolted: T. Shelmerdine, N. Clacher, M. Burrows 08/08
F.A. at E2 5c: T. Hodgeson, S. Chesslet, P. Custy 27.6.84.

17. Turtle Tripler F6b (6B) New. F.A.: Ria Roberts, T. Shelmerdine 01.06.09

Forgotten Sun Area

1. White Honkey F6b+ - re-bolted with resin bolts 05/06/09. Shares lower off with Ralarwdins

2. Ralarwdins F6b - good staples now with clip in lower offs installed.

3. Stretcharmstrong F6c+ - good staples. New lower offs installed 02/06/09

4. The Man with the Indiarubber Head F6a - good staples

5. Udder Head F6a - good staples

6. Name of the Pose F6a+ - good staples. Now with an independant start and extra bolt.

7. Clipterfyn F5+ - New Route. (I. Andrews, M.Doyle 29/05/09)

8. Poet Lariat F6a - New Route. Start at the white streak to gain the ledge. (M. Doyle 03/05/09)

9. Not Runout Groove F5+ * New. An alternative start to Runout Groove at a more consistent grade. Start by clipping the first bolt of Field of Dreams and trend left to mantle the ledge. Pull right easily to access the groove. M. Doyle, M. Lally 02/06/09

10. Runout Groove. F6b*The original Way. Now fully bolted. Start as for Field of Dreams and clip the first 3 bolts of that route before continuing in the groove.

11. Field of Dreams F6b+ - New bolts

12. Construction of Meaning. F7a - Start as for Field of Dreams and trend right above the cave to climb a seemingly blank wall. (T.Shelmerdine, N. Clacher)

13. Crack of Dawn F6a+ New route. Start at a crack at the left end of the scooped cave by the tree. (N. Clacher, T. Shelmerdine, 12/03/09)

14. Gone Down Under F7b No Bolts - needs re-equipping but doesn't seem worth the trouble. (P. Smith 1998)

15. Prime the Pump F7b ** Good staples.(M.Griffiths 1995)

16. Pump Action F7b+ (P. Hawkins 1998) (bottom three bolts replaced - feels like 7a/7a+ not 7b+, Lee. I agree, prob only 6c+, pete, how did you get it so wrong perry!). Now fully re-bolted with a chain lower-off.

17. Trail of the Snail F6b Re-bolted 06/09

18. Forgotten Sun F6b+ - good staples. Now with an extra bolt to start.

19. Not Miss Whiplash (was yet another "Nameless") F6c - good staples

20. Duckworth Lewis F6b+ New route. Start just left of cave mouth. (N.Clacher, T. Shelmerdine 11/03/09)

21. Milo F6b New route. Start at Cave Mouth. (N. Clacher, T. Shelmerdine 08/06/09)

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Outlying Areas -Home

The Gallery

rockcat — Tue, 13 Oct 2009 12:17:43 CDT

The Gallery from the beach with the upper crag top left. The Gallery is an under-used crag on the North Wales coast which deserves more exposure. It is currently (2009) undergoing a makeover from Colin Struthers and friends involving installation of many new lower-offs and some extra bolts. The original lower offs were double hangers and crabs. The extra investment in stainless steel by Colin and Sid Siddique has paid dividends and the bolts and hangers are in very good condition but the carabiners have had their day. The original hangers therefore are currently being replaced with hangers and rings and about 10 more routes need to be equipped in this way (10/09). Until this programme is complete climbers are advised to take some sacrificial crabs to use on the lower-offs if required. The gear has been paid for by Colin himself to date but a gear contibution from the North Wales bolt fund will be sought to complete the task. All contributions to the bolt fund are as always much appreciated. An attachment with updated concise route information as of 06/10/09 can be found at the bottom of this page. A topo can be found here: Gary Gibson's www.sportsclimbs.co.uk website. Look under Clwyd Limestone for The Gallery topos. Full details of The Gallery will feature in the forthcoming A55 crags sport climbing guide currently being prepared. Any feedback on grades / quality ratings etc. is appreciated and can be sent to: mjdoyle1@yahoo.com The rock is a type of Diorite quarried with slabby starts, sometimes powerful and technical finishes with pitches up to 30m in length. There are lots of lay-away moves and undercuts and the friction is excellent. Apparently fragile fins are solid! Be wary of some very sharp edges, many of which have been blunted deliberately but still take care with ropes. Take a 60m rope and 14 quick-draws for the longest routes. The crag consists of two main areas: 1. The main wall which is immediately above the footpath/cycle-way with sport routes of up to 30m. The crag faces north west and gets the sun from mid afternoon. 2. The upper crag, which has two brilliant routes of 30m and which is north-facing. Routes are graded for on-sight ascents with no prior knowledge.
Approaches: Heading from Llandudno on the A55, pass through the Penmaenbach Tunnel and after exiting turn left after 1/2 mile on Junction 16A (signposted Dwygyfylchi) and park just beyond the cattle grid. . From Bangor, come off the A55 at Penmaenmawr (junction 16) and immediately turn left for Dwgyfylchi. Follow this winding road for one mile and park just before the cattle grid. Cross over the dual carriageway and walk towards the tunnels on the cycle-way / footpath for 10 minutes to below the crag The upper crag is reached by crossing the east bound carriageway 100m after the Llandudno-bound tunnel exit and following the 2 retaining walls on the opposite side of the carriageway .
All of the routes were led and equipped by Colin Struthers and Nadim Siddiqui. with assistance from Jim Burton, Nick Colton and Kevin Stephens.

Typical climbing at the main Crag.

Iskra (6b+) on the uppper crag.

The impressive upper crag

Notice Board Crag

rockcat — Tue, 13 Oct 2009 12:08:37 CDT

This crag, high on Conway Mountain is rarely frequented but sports good quality mountain ryolite . The notice has disappeared but the pole is still there and makes a useful belay together with a number of nearby belay stakes. Approach is via a short, dodgy grassy scramble from below or go over the top, down the other side and from the left drop down to the ledges from the fence. There are some belay bolts on the ledges but the place needs a makeover.
30m rope recommended - belay on top.

The routes L - R:

1. Go Zone E3 5c
2. Born again E5 6b
3. Leaning Jowler E2 5b
4. Fiendish Beanish F7b

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Outlying Area - Home

6. Deep Fix Area to Chain Gang Wall

petejh — Tue, 06 Oct 2009 09:02:16 CDT

Ivor Bigum 7b+
Utter from the Gutter 7c
The Cold War 7a
Crusie Missile E1 5c
Greenham Girls E2 5c
Belay Bunny Bounces Back 6a
Insidious Practices E2 5c Probably E3, Mike Raine. Agree, Andy Boorman
Two Ton Chairman 7b
Welcome to the Power Bulge 7b+
The Deep Fix E2 5b E1 and low in the grade at that, Mike Raine.
Vic 20 HVS 5b Needs its own lower-off
The Really Exciting Climb VS 4c
The Torquise Tortoise E3 6a
Space Invaders E2 5b E£ 5c and hard 5c at that, Mike Raine. Agree, Andy Boorman
Astro Blaster E4 6a This is very hard, a bit dirty and very bold, good old Andy Pollitt. E5 6a or so? Andy Boorman
Minas Amour E1 5a
Paradise E4 6a
The Bounty Hunters E3 5c
The Coconut Groove E2 5c
The Bounty Eater's E2 5c
The Boat of a Million Years HS 4b
Stake Out 7a
Eliminator 7a+
Methylated Laughter 7a+
Adequate Compensation E4 5c
Big is Best E3 5c
Go for Gold E1 5b BMC lower off checked, pull thro' rings fitted. AB
New Gold Dream E1 5b
Fools Gold 6c
Romancing the Sloane E4 6b
Golden Confusion HVS 5a
Passionate Friend E1 5b
Bruno His Wall HVS 5a
Uaeba E5 6b
Sheik yer Money 6c More like 6c+/7a. The lower of the two lower off bolts moves. Care needed.
George Formby 7a+ BMC lower off checked, pul thro' rings fitted. AB
Masada 7a+ BMC lower off checked, pull thro' rings fitted. AB
Silage Time 6c+ BMC lower off checked, pull thro' rings fitted. Care needed with rock near the top. AB
En Gedi E4 6a
The Blood Red Game HVS 4c
Meanstreak E5 6b
Hom's Punk E5 6a
Ward 10 E6 6b
Fall Back E5 6b
The Jehad E4 6b
Big Licks E4 6b
Pil E1 5b
Yellow Belly E3 5c
Primrose Walk E2 5c
Beachcomber HVS 5b
Pen Trwyn Pilots E4 6b
Foulish, Goulish E6 6b BMC lower off checked, pull thro' rings fitted. AB
TS replaced like 4 like but missed middle bolt out 'cos he couldn't stop to clip it! Just about safe but pokey if doing it onsight. (Think this should be 7b+, not a trad route by any stretch.. PH).
Direct Start 8b?
FA: Mark Katz
Miss World E6 6b
Mr. Olympia E5 6b BMC lower off checked, pull thro' rings fitted. AB
Olympus Trip E6 6b -2 x new pro bolts June 2007

New Route
'Ironman" 7b.
Eliminate line between Chaingang and Mr Olympia which supersedes Olympus trip.
Boulder problem start left of Chaingang past 2 bolts to junction with that route. Step left to shallow groove clipping Olympus Trip bolts (new bolts June 07) before climbing directly over the bulge past final bolt to finish as for Chaingang
Sustained.
P. Hawkins, C. Wild 17.6.07
3rd bolt is a bit cheeky to clip. Great climbing.
Chain Gang E5 6a BMC lower off checked, pull thro' rings fitted. AB.
More Genius E5 6a
More Genius / precious time; lower offs v. close 2 each other and one is set too deep.
Precious Time E4 5c N.B In pollitts guide has this finishing rightwards at the top.
Coiled Spine E1 5b
The Stirrer E2 5c BMC lower off checked, pull thro' rings fitted. AM
Kanly E2 5c BMC lower off checked, pull thro' rings fitted. AB
Bauxed E1 5b BMC lower off checked, pull thro' rings fitted. AB.
Get on the Beam E2 5c
Pen Trwyn Pillar E4 6a
Reaving Slaying Conan VS 4c
Once in a Blue Moon E3 6a

Pen Trwryn - Home

Penmaen Head

petejh — Thu, 24 Sep 2009 14:55:21 CDT

Development of this new crag complex is now complete. There are 7 separate sectors offering slightly different styles of climbing which can be accessed via the public footpath at the top layby parking by the Gladedale apartment development which replaced the Hotel 70 Degrees above Old Colwyn. The routes are good quality in the main and in the range 4a - 7a+ with most routes around the 6a/6b level. After feed back (complaints actually!) 6 routes have had an extra bolt installed. Grades have also been modified in line with suggestions received. Please keep these coming.
The crag has been developed predominately by Michael Doyle and Norman Clacher and the total route tally is currently 58.

Some lower-off bolts are already showing signs of wear especially where they are shared by routes. Please use you own quick draws for lowering off as much as possible (last person threads) to minimise wear. Maillons / steel crabs are being fitted.

After a clean up by Clwyd Mountaineering Club the place is looking extremely clean and quite attractive. Please take your litter home and pick up any you see. Thanks. The routes are substantially solid. The “stuck-on" holds are actually quite sound, have had some heavy use and they also give some of the routes their character. A guide book will be produced in 2009 by Michael Doyle which will include Penmaen Head and also include all the "A55" sport crags such as The Gallery and recent developments at Castle Inn and Llanddulas Cave. Comments, suggestions and details of any new routes are welcomed and can be sent to

mjdoyle1@yahoo.com.

Recently someone has gone to the trouble of scratching grades at the bottom of each route. Please don't. It's unecessary, damages the rock, it looks messy and there is no need to do this as brief details of all the routes to get you off the ground can be found at:

.
http://clwydmc.co.uk/wiki/Penmaen-Head/