|
|
|
Bolts on Mussel Beach
|
Discussion Forum
|
4 |
Wednesday, 9:48 AM EST by
|
|
|
Thread started: Tuesday, 9:54 AM EST
Watch
Hi there, was on mussel beach yesterday and noticed that the bolt that protects the crux was moving slightly, i don't know much about bolts especially resins so thought i would let you all know.
Steve
P.s- thanks to everyone who has helped rebolt the ormes this summer
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
Show Last Reply
|
|
Last Reply:
RE: Bolts on Mussel Beach
By: ,
Wednesday, 9:48 AM EST
Oh, was worried I'd placed a **** bolt for a minute. On a related note - I've noticed the four bolts on the final traverse on the diamond handrail all flex a bit in their placments due to the torquing force they get there. Worth keeping an eye on them to see if it gets worse.
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
|
|
|
|
|
Screen sizing issues
|
Home
|
0 |
Oct 10 2009, 6:53 AM EDT by
|
|
|
Thread started: Oct 10 2009, 6:53 AM EDT
Watch
It seems some people are having trouble with the page sizes on the wikis. All the text and photo topos I've put onto this site have been laid out according to my laptop's resolution which is 1680x1050, so the pages are best viewed using a screen resolution of 1680x1050 or higher. If the text or topos don't fit on the page without having to use the scroll bar your screen resolution is set too low. You can adjust this in your computer's 'control panel'. It would be good to get a consensus from other computer geeks like me out there who might know whether it would better to change the layout according to a different screen resolution depending on what most people have their computers set to??
Also, Wetpaint will soon be changing all wikis to a standard screen size of 1024 pixels wide.
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
|
|
|
|
Diamond Topo's
|
The Diamond
|
4 |
Oct 1 2009, 6:32 AM EDT by
|
|
|
Thread started: Sep 29 2009, 6:30 AM EDT
Watch
What do the red numbers indicate?
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
Show Last Reply
|
|
Last Reply:
RE: Diamond Topo's
By: ,
Oct 1 2009, 6:32 AM EDT
Just to expand on what Pete has written above...
If anyone wants to re-quip, it would be best to work left from Boat People, 1 route at a time. This allows you to always be working off new bolts. So ideally you would need to re -equip Robinson Cruiser, Non-Tidal Screamer and then Rub a Dub and so on.
All of the re-equipping I have done so far with Pete H and Chris D has been very very scary and very traumatic for me!
If the working left protocol mentioned above is followed, re-equipping will be hard work but safe.
If you're reading this, but don't want to re-equip, yet do want to climb on the diamond then PLEASE MAKE A BOLT FUND DONATION instead.
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
|
|
|
|
|
Redistribtion of bolts/retrobolting
|
Hamburger Buttress
|
3 |
Sep 23 2009, 4:43 PM EDT by
|
|
|
Thread started: Nov 25 2008, 1:59 PM EST
Watch
Might do something here this winter. Will retro Turn the Turtles Turn,
Any objection to tidying up; Big Kazoo, Heightmare and retroing Turtle on Sight and Turtle, Ring your Mother?
Are any of the other routes contenders for retroing?
Mike
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
|
|
|
|
New boulder problem
|
Llandulas Cave
|
3 |
Aug 28 2009, 5:46 AM EDT by
|
|
|
Thread started: Aug 12 2009, 11:22 AM EDT
Watch
I recently cleaned and climbed a cool boulder problem in the cave left of Prime the Pump...
On the inside left wall, there's a traverse line of flake undercuts, leading to a cool roof covered in mini-stalagtites.
Start at the cave entrance, traverse in on the flakes and get established on the roof (crux), cross this rightwards and finish matched on a sloping shelf on the right.
The cave is often wet, but this wall seems to stay dry. I've cleaned the only holds you'll need and the friction is amazing - like sandpaper.
It's a bit esoteric... a headtorch helps!
The Portcullis V6 (I think)
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
Show Last Reply
|
|
Last Reply:
RE: New boulder problem
By: ,
Aug 28 2009, 5:46 AM EDT
Look forward to trying it. L cave is becoming a very attractive venue for all sorts of reasons - and all weather bouldering as well!.
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
|
|
|
|
|
LPT grade changes
|
Lower Pen Trwyn
|
3 |
Aug 12 2009, 6:50 AM EDT by
|
|
|
Thread started: Jun 23 2009, 8:12 AM EDT
Watch
Here is my list of possible grade changes, what do you think?
('?' means I'm less sure):
The Refrain 7b
Under the Boardwalk 6c
Pas de Deux 8b
Mussel Beach 7c+ ?
Over the Moon Direct 7c+ ?
Seaguls Dilema 8b+
Liquid Ambar 8c+ ?
Wild Understatement 8a+
Wall of Voodoo 7b
Cafe Libre 7c+ ?
Kaffe Facet 6b+
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
Show Last Reply
|
|
Last Reply:
RE: LPT grade changes
By: ,
Aug 12 2009, 6:50 AM EDT
Mussel B and Over Moon Direct should stay as 8a i think. Seagulls and Walking the same grade yeah. I think Pas de deserves the official upgrade to 8b now, pretty spicey . And if Pete has another sesh on it without doing that move i'm budging it to 8b+, ha! The refrain could well be 7b for the onsight (rarely onsighted!). Is Liquid Ambar a hard 8c or 8c+. I'll try some more 8c's in the next year and let you know! Certainly a formidable link. Sea of defo 8c+. Never tried Wild Understatement but i think its morpho at the top. I spose if Under Boardwalk goes up one then so should Kaffe Fasset.
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
|
|
|
|
|
spine chill, E4 , not 6c+
|
Discussion Forum
|
0 |
Jul 9 2009, 7:51 PM EDT by
|
|
|
Thread started: Jul 9 2009, 7:51 PM EDT
Watch
a few months ago, i had a rather ungainly bash at this route, but did it never the less, it did not seem very sporting to me, after lobbing off just before clipping the first bolt and nearly snapping my ankles. after using my fishing rod to help secure the first clip, more climbing was resumed! surely this route, excellent as it is, is far more deserving of it`s original grade of E4, (THANK GOD FOR MY FISHING ROD) !
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
|
|
|
|
Mind Light
|
Llandulas Cave
|
0 |
Jun 30 2009, 3:19 AM EDT by
|
|
|
Thread started: Jun 30 2009, 3:19 AM EDT
Watch
This route is a little easier than Karmic Wind but better rock. I think its a really good route, varied and on nice rock. A surprising find!
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
|
|
|
|
Searching
|
Llandulas Cave
|
0 |
Jun 30 2009, 3:18 AM EDT by
|
|
|
Thread started: Jun 30 2009, 3:18 AM EDT
Watch
Has the top wall lost a foothold or something? Seems much harder now than I remember it: certainly quite a bit harder than el Tigre just to the right.
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
|
|
|
|
Magic Flute
|
Discussion Forum
|
1 |
Jun 17 2009, 1:44 PM EDT by
|
|
|
Thread started: Jun 12 2009, 6:29 AM EDT
Watch
Rebolted it's brilliant, tufa tastic! However, there are 2 new bolts at the 3rd clip, DO NOT USE THE HIGHER BOLT of the two as this didn't bite when placed, i will go back with more tools to remove it and the old bolts too.
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
Show Last Reply
|
|
Last Reply:
RE: Magic Flute
By: ,
Jun 17 2009, 1:44 PM EDT
fantastic, was only talking about this other day with mate and saying it needed re bolting, i'll be on it soon:-)
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
|
|
|
|
|
A55 crags guide
|
Discussion Forum
|
0 |
May 18 2009, 5:30 AM EDT by
|
|
|
Thread started: May 18 2009, 5:30 AM EDT
Watch
The GroundUp A55 crags guide has now kicked off and will include the crags listed below. If anyone can offer me historical info. for the record for Llanddulas Cave and Castle Inn particularly I'd be very much obliged.
Thanks,
Mike Doyle
1. Llanddulas Cave
2.Craig-y-Forwyn
3. Craig Bryn Dulas (possibly)
4. Castle Inn Quarry
5. Penmaen Head
6. Notice Board Crag
7. The Gallery
8. Penmaenbach Quarry
9. Craig Seriol/Llanfairfechan hillside and coastal crags
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
|
|
|
|
Lower-off bolts!
|
Lower Pen Trwyn
|
2 |
May 16 2009, 11:54 AM EDT by
|
|
|
Thread started: May 11 2009, 6:28 PM EDT
Watch
I was re-equipping 'Pink Pinkie today, I managed to easily pull out by hand the single eco bolt lower-off. A couple of yanks with a claw hammer behind it was all it took, less than 1kN, scary. I 've seen people top roping and lowering off from this bolt. Careful what you're clipping out there.
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
Show Last Reply
|
|
Last Reply:
RE: Lower-off bolts!
By: ,
May 16 2009, 11:54 AM EDT
Nice "heads up", sounds like we're all living on borrowed time.
Stay safe!
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
|
|
|
|
|
Latest news
|
Craig y Forwyn
|
2 |
Apr 29 2009, 5:33 AM EDT by
|
|
|
Thread started: Feb 3 2009, 5:27 PM EST
Watch
I have hard copies of the latest permission and agreement with CCW to climb in the SSSI. It basically gives permission for the gardening already done on the left hand end of the crag. Send me an SAE 16 Goodman Street Llanberis LL55 4HL if you'd like a copy.
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
Show Last Reply
|
|
Last Reply:
RE: Latest news
By: ,
Apr 29 2009, 5:33 AM EDT
"Hi Mike.
Is it correct to say that climbing is not permitted on the right-hand section of the crag, i.e. everything rightwards from Purple Haze? That's how it looks from the CCW documents.
Pete." I'm having difficulty too working out from the Routes page which are ok and which areas are banned. A suggestion be to change the font colour to green for those that are OK and red for those on banned land for clarity?
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
|
|
|
|
|
Pen Trwyn Rebolting Work
|
Discussion Forum
|
1 |
Apr 8 2009, 2:33 PM EDT by
|
|
|
Thread started: Apr 8 2009, 5:24 AM EDT
Watch
Firstly, thanks so much for the rebolting work currently being undertaken on the upper tier. I assure the rebolters that their work is very much appreciated.
Are there any plans to carry out some rebolting on Lower Pen Trwyn? The fixed gear on some of the harder routes (Parasite, Pas de Deux, Walking Mussel...) is pretty rotten and it's a shame that this discourages climbers from trying these amazing routes.
I work flexible hours so would be happy to help with re-equipping.
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
Show Last Reply
|
|
Last Reply:
RE: Pen Trwyn Rebolting Work
By: ,
Apr 8 2009, 2:33 PM EDT
Nice one, I'm psyched we've got the right equipment to re-equip the routes. I've made a start on LPT already, I'm going right to left looking in and have done up to Khasoggis Ship so far, all the routes that need them will be getting re-equipped with resins as long as stock lasts! I'm planning on finishing the whole of LPT by the end of spring and any help is welcome. I go bolting two or three times a week, you can contact me at petellanrhos at hotmail dot com or 07799057241.
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
|
|
|
|
|
Thanks
|
2. Mumbo Jumbo Area
|
0 |
Mar 28 2009, 5:50 PM EDT by
|
|
|
Thread started: Mar 28 2009, 5:50 PM EDT
Watch
Thanks for the excellent work here folks, well done and cheers
Mike
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
|
|
nigs66 |
|
RE: route between pearl and searching
|
Llandulas Cave
|
1 |
Mar 3 2009, 8:15 AM EST by
TommyChamings |
|
|
Thread started: Feb 28 2009, 11:05 AM EST
Watch
went for a walk round here today, gonna get on this new el tigre, looks good.
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
|
|
|
|
Craig Bryn Dulas
|
Discussion Forum
|
4 |
Feb 5 2009, 12:00 PM EST by
|
|
|
Thread started: Jan 23 2009, 1:14 PM EST
Watch
What are people's thoughts on drytooling on Craig Bryn Dulas?
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
Show Last Reply
|
|
Last Reply:
RE: Craig Bryn Dulas
By: ,
Feb 5 2009, 12:00 PM EST
I've thought the same about empire crag but the main section is fenced off. Elephants Cave would also be good but it's obviously an established sport crag (which no-one uses).
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
|
|
|
|
|
Fixed Gear
|
Craig y Forwyn
|
3 |
Dec 28 2008, 6:23 PM EST by
|
|
|
Thread started: Dec 12 2008, 5:53 AM EST
Watch
Wouldn't it be nice if we could reclimb all the routes without any fixed gear?
0
out of
2 found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
Do you?
Show Last Reply
|
|
Last Reply:
RE: Fixed Gear
By: ,
Dec 28 2008, 6:23 PM EST
I agree - I reckon everything should be removed, but i'll be happy to go with the majority opinion. Be interested to see what the general consensus is.
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
|
|
|
|
|
Shine on you crazy DIAMOND lovers
|
Discussion Forum
|
1 |
Dec 1 2008, 2:12 PM EST by
|
|
|
Thread started: Nov 30 2008, 5:41 PM EST
Watch
I was just wondering whether anyone new of any re-equipping that's gone on at the Diamond? I am extremely keen to re-equip Wall of Evening Light, and maybe the Boat People. It sounds like an amazing place, I was just wondering whether it is possible to abseil in with a 100 metre rope. If a few people are keen it might be worth getting this venue ready for next summer, giving us enough time to get fit enough!
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
|
|
|
|
New routes
|
Discussion Forum
|
0 |
Sep 15 2008, 12:50 PM EDT by
|
|
|
Thread started: Sep 15 2008, 12:50 PM EDT
Watch
I am currently involved in collecting new route info for the N. Wales limestone area for the proposed Ground Up Guide. This guide will include crags other than the Ormes. I.e. Penmaen Head / The Gallery / Llandulas Cave new developments etc. If anyone has any info could they send it to me, Mike Doyle? The info required is:
Crag
Name
Grade
Bolts
First ascent date.
Who else was involved
Description
Quality Stars
Any anecdotal info.
Many Thanks
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
|
